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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

Grinding out the master pin

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Case450

08-22-2007 13:49:30




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I have to remove the track on one side of my machine. When we installed the new undercarriage last fall we welded the master in place on one side. It isnt a heavy weld just a quick bead to keep it from falling out. My question is how do i get the bugger out? Do I just grind the heck out of it and any low spots in the link get built back up with weld or do i break out the die grinder and get precision on it? More or less I'm wondering how much finesse I oughta use. Because the weld is actually flush with the face of the link the only way I can see to grind it out is to gouge it out a bit.
Not a big deal just thought I'd throw this out there.

Also, my dad tipped our overloaded 5-ton single axle dump truck over about three weeks ago. I'm just getting around to looking at it tomorrow. I know the box is empty and won't sit flat. My first guess is the hoist is bent? What would be your first impression. The empty box actually sits about two inches off the frame on one side. All the rest the boxs sits flat. Further one of the hydraulic lines came undone so am unsure as to how much hydro fluid is in there, not much if any i'd guess.

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John-Paul

08-28-2007 12:07:45




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 Re: Grinding out the master pin in reply to Case450, 08-22-2007 13:49:30  
I got a single axle dump truck (4 ton). Ford F series (Think 1966). To tweak like that its one of 3 things typically. Its either A) the dump bed is tweaked (better hope its just that). Or C) A frame mount blew out and the frame bolt snapped-if so replace and make sure the frame mount is streight. C) the truck frame itself tweaked. A machine this heavy with such a heavy bed can tweak either when rolled or layed over on side. My first guess would be the bed, check it from the HINGE points at back of truck for streightness as they "could" twist also, and work your way forward checking from the rear of truck. Find the tweak spot. If none-then check rest. Look under truck good too, especially at frame to body mount points.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

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Case450

08-28-2007 14:02:50




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 Re: Grinding out the master pin in reply to John-Paul, 08-28-2007 12:07:45  
I looked under the box the other day and where the hoist attaches to the frame, it snapped. Have to get a new mount on the end of the cylinder made.



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NC Wayne

08-22-2007 19:58:19




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 Re: Grinding out the master pin in reply to Case450, 08-22-2007 13:49:30  
The width on that part of the link isn't really critical so just grind it off, no precision necessary. Usually though the head of the pin protrudes a little so by the time you get to the root of the weld your really not that deep into the side of the link anyway. On that note when taking the end of the pin off like that the best thing to do is go ahead and buy a new master pin to go back in it's place. Typically you can get a kit with the pin, spacers and spring washers so you've got everything new and the right size and length again. I think the last one I got was a 1 1/4 diameter pin for a CAT. I got it from Wilson Finnely and it was like $30.

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