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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

rework roller bolts faseners

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U9 U9 CAT

11-07-2007 15:23:33




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well I'm at it again. bolts stripped out on my bolt bars. old wore old dozer.

Got my 16mm x2 today they'll almost screw into the stripped out 5/8 fine That's a no fix.

3/4 seems like it would be a lot of drilling to make work, and would be trouble later

hele- coils is all I have found, as far as inserts
Idon't know maybe tomrrow will be better




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Old Magnet

11-07-2007 17:05:17




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 11-07-2007 15:23:33  
Why don't you just make new bolting strips using the old ones for a pattern as NC Wayne suggested.

I suppose you could use the heli-coils if your in a bind but doing them in fine thread requires the insert winder as well. By the time you loose thread clearance on both the heli-coil and bolt they don't really hold all that well for high torque/high load application.

www.mcmaster.com has the double thread inserts. Problem is they take a large installation thread that will take a good bite of material out of the bolting strips.

I can tell you the 3/4 version does work. Cat should have used that size in the first place.

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U9 U9 CAT

11-07-2007 20:24:09




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to Old Magnet, 11-07-2007 17:05:17  
you know, it's one of thoughs things, when you have worked hard on something and it just didn't come out. I don't know why the bolt bars are so weak I use the wright tap and drill .578, holes measure wright. about 8 pulled out
Also now I havee a restocking fee 40 at fasenal that I can't get back. It just blows my mine, if something can go wrong I guess it will, on the flip side, I have learned alot about metric bolts.
I think I'm going with 3/4 11 it will be less drilling It was a job drilling thoughs holes the first time and I'm not set up to do that again Thanks for the addvise Mike

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Old Magnet

11-08-2007 08:08:09




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 11-07-2007 20:24:09  
Here's another version. I commonly go this route when making fish plates.
Take the tapping strips, (assuming they are in good condition)drill them out for 5/8 thru bolt and using a short bolt to hold them in place weld a grade 8 nut on the backside of the tapping strip. Now you have a known strength nut instead of threads tapped in mild steel tapping strip.Try one nut first to see that you have clearance for the tapping strip with nuts attached and that they will not interfere with the track truck side bolting.
My favorite is to use grade 8 flanged nuts (coarse thread)that have a deformed thread locking feature (available from McMaster or commonly used on big truck frames. Also use the grade 8 flanged head bolts. Go to 2-1/2 inch length which has adequate unthreaded shanks where the 2" commercial bolts don't. The 2-1/2 in bolt length version is to long for regular installation but you need the unthreaded shank length and I chop saw the threads back so there is minimum exposure of threads to corrode. The 2-1/2 should work fine with the added length of the nut and not require rework. Do not use lock washers as they are known to cut into the roller flange and effect the torque. Also the lock washers are prone to breaking so there goes the grip. Still assemble with anti-sieze. I use the flanged bolts (no lock washers) for the track truck to finals hub mounting also.

Hang in there...your close to the end. The only remaining peril I can think of is I once new a guy that weld built up rollers, idlers and sprockets and went to far and had a hell of a time getting the master pin installed.

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U9 U9 CAT

11-08-2007 14:07:53




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to Old Magnet, 11-08-2007 08:08:09  
Well, I orderd 50, 5/8NC grade 8 nuts and 50 bolts 3 1/2 long I'll change out the metric bolts and pick them up tomorrow. One thing though, the grade 8 type bolts don't seem to weld so good, when I took off the "patches" were I had welded the bolts to the rollers. They didn't seem to absorb into the bolt, had pentration an a nice weld but didn't stick. I guess the harden metal need a differnt rod any advice on that?

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Old Magnet

11-08-2007 16:39:34




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 11-08-2007 14:07:53  
Hope you meant 2-1/2 length not 3-1/2 which would be way to long. Don't recall every having any trouble gluing grade 8 nuts on. I typically use 6011 on the rusty stuff, 7013 or 6013 if you want it to look pretty. Might try experimenting with a couple to see if you can knock them off. Don't know about some of these bolts and nuts made in China, India or wherever. That is why I like the flanged nuts...gives you a little more meat to work with.

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135 Fan

11-08-2007 10:52:47




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to Old Magnet, 11-08-2007 08:08:09  
Stover nuts are what you are referring to. I worked at a place that built winch trucks and that's all they use on big trucks. The only thing is that they said the nuts can only be used once. When we took all the bolts off so we could bolt the plates for the winch deck, we just threw the old bolts and nuts away. I have used stover nuts on other applications and they seemed to still hold tight when reused. Maybe just on something like a truck it's important to use new nuts. Dave

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Old Magnet

11-08-2007 13:31:06




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to 135 Fan, 11-08-2007 10:52:47  
OK, Stover lock nuts it is. I reuse the nuts frequently and never throw the bolts away. Maybe for an aerospace or per goverment spec. it makes sense to duplicate the original thread grip. I bet they don't recommend anti-sieze either but it still makes good sense for the type application we're talking about here.



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Charlie

11-08-2007 05:43:13




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 Re: rework roller bolts faseners in reply to U9 U9 CAT, 11-07-2007 20:24:09  
I don't know what your drilling set-up is like, but when I redrilled mine a number of years ago on a different machine, I was able to take my benchtop drill press and position it to do the drilling.



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