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Crawlers, Dozers, Loaders & Backhoes Discussion Forum

4500 ford loader removal

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Greg Lasher

01-22-2008 16:09:24




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What is the easiest way to remove the loader on a 4500 ford tractor, loader, backhoe? It looks to me like you have to take off the backhoe, unbolt the loader and then lift the loader up over the tractor - it does not look to me like you can drive away from it. The clutch quite on my 4500 and the trans. input shaft is leaking so I guess splitting the tractor is the best way to go. Thanks in advance.
Greg

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steve n carol

01-23-2008 12:24:54




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 Re: 4500 ford loader removal in reply to Bob/Ont, 01-22-2008 16:09:24  
Greg, If you are in the So. Cal area and don't have anyone to help ya, let me know I'll come and give you a hand...sl



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steve n carol

01-23-2008 12:21:47




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 Re: 4500 ford loader removal in reply to Steve 150, 01-22-2008 16:09:24  

JF in CT said: (quoted from post at 10:30:43 01/23/08) Had mine off last winter. Yes the hoe has to come off (easy; just loosen the Left and right hooks and disconnect the supply and return hose). You have to drive out the loader pivot pins on top then take off the loader frame sides one at a time. Once the hoe is off, however, you may be able to seperate the tractor and slide the rear away without taking the loader frame off. Just remove the left side loader hose (pipe) crossover.

Jim


Yep, Jim's right. you can seperate the tractor (at the clutch bellhousing) w/ the loader attached. Leave the hoe on, for added weight on the rear.

Crib up the bell housing/transmission. There are 2 long bolts (horizontal) on the bottom, make sure the cribbing isnt in the way of R&Ring these bolts. You can use the loader/bucket as a place to attach your come-a-long. Just brace up the loader arms to fashon a gantry. Also use some angle or channel iron/s over the hyd. rams, to prevent them from collapsing when you disconnect the Hyd.
Before you brace the lifted bucket and loader arms (I used 2- 4X4's (vert) and 2- 2x4's (horiz), remove the nose assy. next the radiator and then the front wheels. drive in a couple of wedges (wood) between the front axle and sub frame to prevent them from turning.
I left the steering rod (that connects to the pitman arm) attached to the front axle. this gave me leverage to manage it. Next, brace ot your bucket and remove the engine from the bellhousing. Perhaps there are other ways you can split this tractor....most likley. Please be careful, If you can have someone around, do so! These things are HEAVY and have no God. Also, install the clutch disc in correctly, (don't ask how I know this). Finally, try to do this on level ground... I did not get my clutch from the dealer! Rather a clutch rebuilder on the west coast, at a third of the price..... be careful!!!!!sl

ONE more thing, The Radatior is a PITA to remove. Two vertical carriage bolts into the bottom of the radatior, I think they were 5/8" of 11/16th (nut) hex size.

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JF in CT

01-23-2008 09:30:43




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 Re: 4500 ford loader removal in reply to Greg Lasher, 01-22-2008 16:09:24  
Had mine off last winter. Yes the hoe has to come off (easy; just loosen the Left and right hooks and disconnect the supply and return hose). You have to drive out the loader pivot pins on top then take off the loader frame sides one at a time. Once the hoe is off, however, you may be able to seperate the tractor and slide the rear away without taking the loader frame off. Just remove the left side loader hose (pipe) crossover.

Jim

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