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If it's the dry type, (though that series of tractor had oil type from the early to mid 50's), it's the much smaller plate with the friction materials on it, not familiar with the later oil type clutch, except that it's well built. Not too bad to remove the clutch assembly from the tractor, just have to find someone to reline it, though these don't seem to wear excessively, I've got 2 same era D7 dry type clutches on the bench and the main clutch plates are well worn, but the clutch brake looks good, almost new. Might just need an adjustment. It is a pain to shift these when that transmission does not stop, few tricks to avoid grinding them, throttle em down sometimes helps, still have to wait a little, push the master clutch lever forward after it's disengaged activates the clutch brake. With the master clutch disengaged, if you have a cable control, on the back if you engage that it will stop the transmission, anything run off the back pto will do that, then shift gears, engage clutch. I can remember trying to figure out whether using the fwd-rev lever and keeping that engaged, then shifting gears, then direction with the fwd-rev lever would work better to avoid clashing gears, definitely need that clutch brake to work properly with these or you'll fight that transmission every time, not much of a fight as they just don't go into gear, just grind.
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