|
Pretty simple job. Pay attention to how things come apart, and do one side at a time. Make sure you loosen the adjustment hardware before you take everything else loose. Trying to re-install the adjustment linkage with a rusted-stuck nut isn't gonna work, and you can't have much success getting it loose in mid-air. While everything is apart, CLEAN it; REALLY clean it! Get any rust that's on the balls or the tracks they ride in out of there. Look for broken parts or pieces that are obviously worn. Also make sure the seals on the shaft aren't leaking any transmission grease. The disks themselves will wear out long before the rest of it. If you can locate some new rubber boots for the actuating rods, get them! They help keep water out, and moisture is enemy #1 for these brakes. Follow the instructions in the manual for adjusment, and give them a little time to break in before abusing them. A coat of paint over the housings when you're finished will help keep moisture from seeping in where the castings butt against each other. One more thing.....you'll likely get a variety of opinions as to lubricating the balls and internal linkage. Grease will work....but if things get really hot (and brakes can get very hot!) the grease will migrate to where you don't want it! Powdered graphite will work well, but it's messy, and you don't want to put a lot of it in there. Silicone spray will work, but you'd better not spray it on the disks! It also won't last as long as the graphite. Anti-sieze thread compound will work in moderation. These are good brakes if well maintained. They're commonly thought to be a lot less trouble free than the older band-types, but if they're working correctly, they'll freeze a rear wheel almost instantly.
| 
