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Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery

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BTD

09-24-2001 04:18:42

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Actually, this is a two question post. I have found out with much unhappyness that gasoline is great at removing Case Ironguard paint that has been on my M for over a month now. The paint just bubbles better than if I used Easy-Off. After I repaint, does anyone know of a good product to put over the paint to seal it better and prevent the removal? With a slight drip in the carb I don't think I'll ever be able to prevent gas from touching the paint. Second question, I have heard of a 'water drain' hole in M manifolds. My M has the original gasoline manifold and in the corner maybe an inch from where the tube connected to the carb joins the rest of the manifold, I have a decent sized hole. It's about 3/16 around. Is this the water drain I have heard about or do I have just have a hole? Exhaust blows out of the hole when running. Thanks a bunch fellas! -BTD

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Farmall Gray

09-25-2001 07:41:50

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Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to BTD, 09-24-2001 04:18:42

Some paints are more durable than others, But I don't think any paint will totally resist gas constanly dripping on it. I painted my F-12 about 10 yrs ago with urethane paint. Over the years, the sediment bowl leaked a few times and it stained the paint on drive coupling cover. It didn't wrinkle it off though. This was very expensive paint-about $125.00 a gallon. The best thing to do is to fix the leaks so that the gas doesn't drip on the paint. All of the operators manuals that I have read on these old tractors recommend that you shut off the gas when the tractor is not in use. I have gotten in to the habit of shutting the gas off it it going to sit for more than an hour on all of my tractors. Some times sediment bowls will leak when the gas is on.
This is bad. They can be fixed so that they don't leak. I have had good success with repaking the valves with graphite faucet packing. Do not use teflon packing. I use rubber bowl gaskets and they still have to be replaced every once in a while. As for carb leaks, most will occur when the tractor is sitting with the gas turned on and the engine not running. They will drip if you over choke it. they are supposed to do this so that the gas doesn't build up in the bottom of the carb. The Farmall regular had a little drip pan under the carb that let the gas run out past the frame rail to the ground. You could make something like this out of a plastic jug. Maybe you could even find a red jug or oil bottle that wouldn't look so obvious. On my Dad's one tractor,
He drilled the weep hole out on the carb and put in a brass elbow and a piece of copper tubing so that what leaked out dripped on the ground. This may not be a good idea if the tractor is run in a lot of dust because it would draw unfilterd air in through the tubing.

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randy hall

09-24-2001 22:54:01

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Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to BTD, 09-24-2001 04:18:42

i believe the trouble with the paint bubbling and washing off is due to most gasoline has ethanol in it nowadays for pollution control reasons and ethanol is a wonderful solvent. i use ih 2150 paint with john deere fast drying thinner and napa hardener 575a and this makes a very shiney and durable finish. the m gasoline manifold has two holes at the bottom of the exhaust part of the manifold in each rear corner of the square part by the intake throat.

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Jon

09-24-2001 05:21:46

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Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to BTD, 09-24-2001 04:18:42

If you use hardener in the paint it will solve your problem. When I painted my 400 I used the ironguard paint with hardener, I've spilled gas on it a couple times and it didn't do anything to the paint. I even took a rag soaked in acetone to a part to try and get the paint off and it wouldn't do anything to the paint.

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chris petersen

09-26-2001 11:37:39

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Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to Jon, 09-24-2001 05:21:46

I see a lot of different comments on hardner ... pro and con.

You reported good luck using a hardner with yours - Which hardner did you use?

I am planning to paint with Case/IH 2150 paint, what hardner works best, and where do I get it? The dealer does not stock any hardner, just the paint.

Any advice on what hardners to use with 2150 paint would be appreciated.

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J.D. Hummj

09-24-2001 17:24:41

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Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to Jon, 09-24-2001 05:21:46

I spent months restoring a Super C and had exactly the same thing happen below the sediment bowl. I used hardner in my Iron Gaurd also. Seems to chip awful easy. Mixed hardner according to directions on the can. I am going to wire a small pan below the sediment bowl to catch the gas while the tractor sits. I will have to remove it when I want to use the tractor. I sometimes wonder if after 48 years of having gas dripped on the cast iron if the metal is permanetly embedded with chemicals that will just do that to paint. The same theory would hold true for the filler neck on the tank. By the way I was extremely irritated when I discovered my bubbled paint.

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George Willer

09-24-2001 06:21:58

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Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to Jon, 09-24-2001 05:21:46

I have 2 Cubs that were both painted in May, 2000. Both were painted with Ironguard 2150. The first one went well without hardener, but I decided to use hardener on the second one. There may be other factors working here, but the one with hardener isn't holding up nearly as well. The paint on the tank is bubbled around the cap (tight safety cap) and it hasn't even had gas spilled on it. It seems the fumes are enough to do it. Please don't get the idea that hardener will be a big improvement! It won't be in every case.

The metal was sandblasted to bare metal and primed.

The hardener was from Yenkin-Majestic, used as directed. The only possible benefit I see is faster drying time.

George Willer

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Cliff Neubauer

09-24-2001 06:48:49

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Re: Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to George Willer, 09-24-2001 06:21:58

Something is wrong with your paint job with hardner, the hardner should make it much more durable. The hardners don't just make the paint dry faster but they chemically change the paint to make it harder and more durable. I have some paint jobs a couple years old with and without hardner and the ones with hardner are lasting much better.

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George Willer

09-24-2001 07:49:34

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to Cliff Neubauer, 09-24-2001 06:48:49

Yes, I know the hardener is supposed to be better. My point was...it ain't necessarily so. So far, the one without hardener looks just as good, and has been less trouble. I only described my own experience. I have many years painting experience, and used the product as directed. I'm happy yours worked out better. I don't plan to use hardener ever again.

George Willer

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BTD

09-24-2001 07:13:03

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to Cliff Neubauer, 09-24-2001 06:48:49

I did'nt use any hardener. I read about the health effects of using hardener without the proper equipment and not owning that equipment, I opted to skip the hardener. But should the paint be that weak? If so, I think I'll leave my H pink as the 60 year old paint is tougher than this modern stuff. -BTD

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Cliff Neubauer

09-24-2001 15:59:50

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Ironguard paint and a manifold mystery in reply to BTD, 09-24-2001 07:13:03

I painted our super H without hardner and I haven't seen the problems you have. If I remember right there is a small spot around the gas cap that got some spilled gas on it and faded alittle but the paint was probably less than two weeks old at that time. Maybe you got a bad batch of paint or something, I've got a few cans that didn't seem quite right.

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