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Supporting Farmall A with engine off.

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Brian

10-02-2001 20:25:52




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I am planning to remove the front end and engine from my tractor. I know that the best way to support the tractor is to "mount" stands to the sides of the transmission housing... however, it would be easier if I could just support it using blocks/wood under the flat spot on the underside of the transmission. Will i run the risk of cracking the housing if I do this ? Can it support the weight ?


Thanks.

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Andy Martin

10-02-2001 21:11:34




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 Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Brian, 10-02-2001 20:25:52  
There are no structural issues with holding an A up by the clutch housing. It is thick cast iron and can be used to jack the entire front of the tractor up.

Blocks of wood work fine, but a floor large jack will work well too, and allows you to "drive" the rear of the tractor away from and back into the engine. Keep everything on a solid, flat, level floor and go slowly.

BE SURE to block the front axle so the engine won't fall sideways as you take it loose. If you block between the radiator housing and axle, you can pull the engine/clutch apart and roll the rear back to do clutch work with just a chain fall from a rafter holding the rear of the engine.

The biggest threat is bending the pan with a support under it.

I've split them on dirt sloping under trees but I don't recommend it, they can be a bear to get back together on the slope.

A little hint, when you go to put it back together, make sure the tractor is in neutral. Engage the PTO. Line up the clutch plate by eye, centering the plate by the pilot bearing, and put the split between a groove and spline exactly at the top. You can get the clutch centered better by eye than with a lineup tool. Get a good light and position yourself where your good eye is dead center to the pilot bearing, where you see concentric rings for the front and rear of the bearing. With the pressure plate just barely loose enough you can move the clutch plate easily, slide it to where the splines are concentric with the pilot bearing. Snug up and then tighten the pressure plate then turn the flywheel to get a spline/groove split at straight up. Now position the transmission input shaft so it matches, split straight up between groove/spline. It will go in so easily you'll think something is wrong. If it should not go right in, you can turn the PTO to adjust the input shaft. Lineup tools, ezpecially universal ones, have some slop in them and won't line up the clutch as good as you can do by eye.

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scotty

10-04-2001 06:41:30




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 Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Andy Martin, 10-02-2001 21:11:34  
Andy, That was a great writeup Im sure it will help
when I do my clutch and pressure plate next year.
Thanks scotty



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Haas

10-03-2001 06:56:34




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 Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Andy Martin, 10-02-2001 21:11:34  
I'm getting ready to split my Hebard A-21 Shop Mule in the near future to replace the clutch pilot bearing. Thanks for the excellent write up on how to do it.



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Andy Martin

10-03-2001 20:28:35




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 Re: Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Haas, 10-03-2001 06:56:34  
Glad to help, Haas.

By the way, have you greased your pilot bearing. Depending on how bad it is, a little grease can really help. I learned about the external pilot grease zerk on this board and have greased most of mine I use. It gives you peace of mind even if they don't need it.



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Haas

10-04-2001 06:03:11




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Andy Martin, 10-03-2001 20:28:35  
Don't think the A has a zerk for the pilot bearing. The pilot bearing is just a bronze bushing. There are some zerks in the clutch area on the A, but I think they are for the throwout bearing and for the clutch release carrier. The M has a zerk on the fly wheel for the pilot bearing. Most of my problem with the Shop Mule, I blame on the fact that the clutch housing was completely full of rats nest when I got it. I cleaned that out as best I could through the access holes. You would not believe how packed full it was. The clutch works, but the gears just will not completely stop turning and the gears clash.

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Andy Martin

10-04-2001 08:56:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Haas, 10-04-2001 06:03:11  
I thought I had greased my C pilot bearing, and when I looked at the cross section in an I&T manual it clearly shows the zerk.

By the way there is a deflector flange on the clutch plate to shed excess grease and a channel in the flywheel to get rid of the grease, with two holes through the flywheel. IH tried to take care of overgreasing, but I still do it very sparingly.

I have a B engine on the ground and I'll check it's flywheel.

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Haas

10-04-2001 17:17:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Andy Martin, 10-04-2001 08:56:41  
I don't have a manual for my A, but I have an owners manual and a parts catalog for my C. I've looked again and can't find there is any way to grease the pilot bearing. The owners manual says it is an "oil less bushing". The two zerks in the clutch housing are for the clutch release mechanism.



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Brian

10-02-2001 21:37:45




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 Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Andy Martin, 10-02-2001 21:11:34  
Thanks for the fantastic follow up and hints. Much appreciated.



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tiny

10-03-2001 13:14:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Supporting Farmall A with engine off. in reply to Brian, 10-02-2001 21:37:45  
good write up. i wish i new about the pto shaft trick that is slick thanks for the info.tiny



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