There are no structural issues with holding an A up by the clutch housing. It is thick cast iron and can be used to jack the entire front of the tractor up. Blocks of wood work fine, but a floor large jack will work well too, and allows you to "drive" the rear of the tractor away from and back into the engine. Keep everything on a solid, flat, level floor and go slowly. BE SURE to block the front axle so the engine won't fall sideways as you take it loose. If you block between the radiator housing and axle, you can pull the engine/clutch apart and roll the rear back to do clutch work with just a chain fall from a rafter holding the rear of the engine. The biggest threat is bending the pan with a support under it. I've split them on dirt sloping under trees but I don't recommend it, they can be a bear to get back together on the slope. A little hint, when you go to put it back together, make sure the tractor is in neutral. Engage the PTO. Line up the clutch plate by eye, centering the plate by the pilot bearing, and put the split between a groove and spline exactly at the top. You can get the clutch centered better by eye than with a lineup tool. Get a good light and position yourself where your good eye is dead center to the pilot bearing, where you see concentric rings for the front and rear of the bearing. With the pressure plate just barely loose enough you can move the clutch plate easily, slide it to where the splines are concentric with the pilot bearing. Snug up and then tighten the pressure plate then turn the flywheel to get a spline/groove split at straight up. Now position the transmission input shaft so it matches, split straight up between groove/spline. It will go in so easily you'll think something is wrong. If it should not go right in, you can turn the PTO to adjust the input shaft. Lineup tools, ezpecially universal ones, have some slop in them and won't line up the clutch as good as you can do by eye.
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