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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Concurrences

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A. Bohemian

05-08-2007 07:44:01




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(1) You need a rain cap. Indoors is good to, but an M is a BIG vehicle...

(2) An oil and filter change is perscribed, by almost every manufacturer of motor vehicles world wide, as routine preventative practice any time moisture is observed in the motor oil.

At least crack the drain plug and look for water, as Jim suggests. Or just change it anyway and have done with it.

Yes, changing the oil cold is less beneficial than changing it with the engine warmed up; however, water in the oil is an EXTRAORDINARY CIRCUMSTANCE. Changing the oil and filter is cheap. Yes, the filters have gone up quite a bit lately; so have bearing kits!

After changing the oil, or at least ascertaining its integrity, start the tractor and let it reach operating temperature, keeping a close eye on the pressure gauge, of course. Warming the engine will help "cook out" excess moisture.

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steve laaveg

05-08-2007 14:15:09




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 Re: Concurrences in reply to A. Bohemian, 05-08-2007 07:44:01  
I was in a rush this morning to get to work, but before I left, I cracked the drain plug on the oil pan and I swear about a gallon of water came out and the oil was very milky. Just to make it clear, the muffler has a rain cap on it-all this water came in at the bottom of the muffler where it is supposed to screw into the exhaust manifold (it rained about 3" here in ND) Upon closer inspection the threads on the manifold look beyond repair, so I don't know where to go next. The threads are very corroded and nearly non-existent. Some work acquaintences recommended just cutting some grooves in a 2" pipe and turning it into the manifold. I went to the local rental place and they didn't have a 2" NPT die. Any ideas, guys and gals. Thanks.

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Janicholson

05-09-2007 06:21:41




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 Re: Concurrences in reply to steve laaveg, 05-08-2007 14:15:09  
I'm glad you did as I suggested. Even if the threads are looking bad, the pipe tap will still probably be a good choice. Tool stores sell them, but they are pricy (ergo the rental) finding a l=commercial plummer is also an option of choice (friendly is best, or it could cost more than the tap) get it aligned perfectly with the old threads and keep it lubricated with ATF. Turn in 1/8th turn, back off turn in a bit more, back off till the cutting edges clear the cut behind go slow, it is a one time thing and will be fine if approached with tenderness.

Replacement manifolds are available (try to get a unit cast in the US.

If threading will not work at all, and a new manifold is beyond reason, buy a ---schedule 80--- black Iron 2" NPT coupling and weld it to the top of the manifold with Nickel Rod.

JimN

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Smith1000

05-09-2007 03:50:25




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 Re: Concurrences in reply to steve laaveg, 05-08-2007 14:15:09  
I have the same problem with my M. The pipe out of the exhaust manifold wobbles and the threads are gone. It has a rain cap, but a lot of water can make its way into the engine where the pipe meets the manifold. It has a rain cap. I usually keep it in the barn, but sometimes it is out in the rain. I try to watch it closely and get it moved. I have put a tarp over it before. I need to get it fixed also. I have drained out "milky" oil before.

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