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Pre-Flight Check... Cont.

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Brian

03-30-2002 16:35:55




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Still working on getting the Old A that has been stored for 10 years ready to go.

Changed oil & Filter.
Pulled off Valve Covers to make sure the valves were free ( all were but one, which needed a little gentle tap ).
Gonna Drain and clean the gas tank and carbs.
Going to Replace Coolent.
Going to fill fan belt pulley assembly with oil.
Will replace Gear lube in trans.

Further Suggestions ?
How about oiling the bearing on the generator ?
Should I be worried about any of the Inner oil channels or ducts ?

I just found out that the clutch pedal and the brake pedal beside it appear to be locked together. Any suggestions ?

And finally.....
I know that there is liquid in the tires, and I've read that is causes rust. Soo.... is there any way to neutralize it ? Is there a better liquid to use now ? Should I try to sand off the rust ? I'm afraid I'll just sand away the whole rim !

Thanks Boys...

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Dan

03-31-2002 11:29:22




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 Re: Pre-Flight Check... Cont. in reply to Brian, 03-30-2002 16:35:55  
You might want to put an in line fuel filter in the line from tank to carb, might save ya a lot of carb cleaning later. When you clean the carb use solvent and air to clean passages, not cutting torch tip cleaners like someone I know.(not admitting a thing) good luck, surprisingly a lot of times these start back up and run fairly easily



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Chuck Dunbar

03-30-2002 18:39:00




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 Re: Pre-Flight Check... Cont. in reply to Brian, 03-30-2002 16:35:55  
New plugs points cap and condenser will certainly help ! Wont hurt to put some new spark plug wires on it either . Your local NAPA ( or local parts store ) will surprise you most likely , and have all that stuff on nthe shelf..... .. Good Luck Let us know how she purrs



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cd

03-30-2002 18:31:05




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 Re: Pre-Flight Check... Cont. in reply to Brian, 03-30-2002 16:35:55  
for the rims, you can put magnesium (I think) in them which won't rust as much. But since the rust is started you must get the rims sandblasted or use a rust treatment to stop the rust, preferably sand blast since some repair will probably be needed, just remember some thinks working on rims. I use body putty sanded smoothly on the inside to protect the tube but on the outside of the rim, fill the problems with weld because body putty will prossibly crack and provides not strength. I have repaired a few, and on the bad ones you can put in some serious hours.

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jerry Gerthofer

03-30-2002 17:45:58




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 Re: Pre-Flight Check... Cont. in reply to Brian, 03-30-2002 16:35:55  
your doing all right.. you,ll get it going..... ..



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big fred

03-30-2002 17:31:13




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 Re: Pre-Flight Check... Cont. in reply to Brian, 03-30-2002 16:35:55  
There's a little oil cup on your magneto that you should give a few drops of oil, and yeah, while you're at it, give the generator and starter oil cups a few drops too.

The final drives are lubricated separate from the transmission, and there is no way to drain them without removing the pans, so as long as you're doing the transmission, might as well do the final drives. New gaskets available from your Case/IH dealer for about 2 bucks each.

I wouldn't worry about the fluid in the tires at this point. If the rims are rusted, they've been at it for 10 years, a few more weeks won't make a difference. Wait until you get it running, then re-visit the tires.

As for the clutch and brake, you should probably try and free them up as best you can, but by all means, make sure it's not in gear when you first try to start it.

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tiny

03-30-2002 17:30:31




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 Re: Pre-Flight Check... Cont. in reply to Brian, 03-30-2002 16:35:55  
clutch and break or both break peddles?
there should be three peddles left side is clutch the right two are breaks



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