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Sticking valves

Super H

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Bob M

05-06-2002 07:56:19

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Here's the problem:

Last spring we fired up my father in law's Super H and found it only would run on 3 cylinders. It had been sitting idle (inside) for 2+ years. When I removed the rocker box I found the #2 intake valve stuck down and the pushrod disengaged from the rocker arm. A generous application of WD-40 and some gentle tapping with a brass drift on the valve stem loosened it up. Reinstalled the pushrod, fired the motor and found the valve worked fine. Then checked the valve clearances (all were OK)and buttoned it back up. The tractor was then used for a total of maybe 2 hours, then parked back inside.

This weekend we fired it up again after sitting idle for 12+ months. This time we found both the #2 and #3 intake valves stuck down and their pushrods disengaged. The WD-40 and brass drift treatment again loosened them up. Checked the pushrods for straightness (they were perfect) and set them back in. Valve clearance checked out and the tractor now runs fine on all 4 again. A restart yesterday found the engine running perfectly - no evidence of valve sticking.

My question: Anything we do to prevent the valves from sticking again? The oil has been changed. I found the motor to be squeeky clean inside - FIL used good detergent oil and religiously changed it and filter when it was a working tractor. My only suggestion is to fire it up every couple of months and let it run until it's fully warmed up. I welcome others' experience/ideas. Thanks! ...Bob M

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Joe

05-06-2002 20:00:22

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Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Bob M, 05-06-2002 07:56:19

I would also recomend Marvel Mystery Oil, and running it more often. I agree with the thing about Leaded Fuel, it probably lubes the valves, and I have always heard that it helps things run cooler too. Which is why we still run leaded in all our tractors.

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Red Dave

05-06-2002 10:06:02

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Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Bob M, 05-06-2002 07:56:19

Bob, I wonder if there may be just enough condensation to cause a corrosion problem. Does the oil look milky when you drain it?
A simple cure may be to run the tractor more often, preferably for long enough each time to drive out any condensation.

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buck

05-06-2002 08:50:31

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Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Bob M, 05-06-2002 07:56:19

In the past I have found that certain oils or additves will become very tacky after sitting for extended times.Before each startup check your oil and just by touch see if it has a sticky/glue like feel to it.

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Farmer Bob

05-06-2002 08:38:05

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Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Bob M, 05-06-2002 07:56:19

Hi Bob, Others may have better solutions but I'd recommend maybe substituting one pint of oil with a pint of Marvel Mystry oil in the crankcase on the next change before you let her sit for any period. You can either pre-mix it or drive the tractor around some before putting her to sleep. Should do the trick.//FB

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Dave 2N

05-06-2002 18:18:08

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Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Farmer Bob, 05-06-2002 08:38:05

I think he needs to run it more often AND do as you suggested with the Marvel Mystery Oil; I've seen that stuff do some good things.

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The Red

05-06-2002 08:07:48

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Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Bob M, 05-06-2002 07:56:19

Bob that is odd. Hs and Super Hs aren't known for sticky valves. Are you getting good oil flow through the rocker assembly when the engine is running?

Is the shed damp by chance?

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Bob M

05-06-2002 09:34:44

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Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to The Red, 05-06-2002 08:07:48

Hey Red - The SH seems to have good oil flow - at least oil splashes off the rockers and onto the observer when you run it with the cover off. It's dry where it's parked (unheated but inside). It's "roomates" (another SH, two SM's and several Olivers) have never had this problem, though none of them ever sits idle more than 6 or 7 months, and the others all accumulate 25 - 50+ hours over the course of a year. ...Bob

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The Red

05-06-2002 09:53:43

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Re: Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Bob M, 05-06-2002 09:34:44

Bob has the head been reworked somewhere along the line?

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Bob M

05-06-2002 16:05:56

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Re: Re: Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to The Red, 05-06-2002 09:53:43

Hey Red - Don't think the head has ever been off this tractor. It was used mostly for planting corn (400 acres/yr) until about 1982, then just sat in the barn since. The sump has an aftermarket dipstick in place of the test cocks - oil is so clean it's hard to see on the stick.

Guess we'll just figure to start it up every couple of months and drive it around until it's good and hot. Probably better for the rest of the tractor anyway!

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jal-SD

05-06-2002 08:35:19

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Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to The Red, 05-06-2002 08:07:48

Sounds to me like the gas might be too "dry"-remember these things were designed to be run on leaded gas-lead used to lube the valves. It might be a good idea to use some marvel mystery oil in the gas when you start it & get it warmed up. Are you using Stable in the gas? Maybe you will want to take the air intake off @ carb & squirt some marvel directly into it before you shut it off just before you store it. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)

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Andy Martin

05-06-2002 10:52:16

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Re: Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to jal-SD, 05-06-2002 08:35:19

The product referred to is Sta-Bil which keeps gas from going bad during storage. I had a chronic annual problem with my weedeater until I started using this product. No varnish in the carb.

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Dan Kelley - Gummy gas

05-07-2002 18:36:14

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Re: Re: Re: Re: sticking valves - Super H in reply to Andy Martin, 05-06-2002 10:52:16

Another way of solving the varnish in the gas problem is to use aviation gas. Av-gas is already stablized. Use the lowest octane that will burn in your engine without knocking.

Av-gas is also available in a low lead version, which is not as much lead as gas used to have, but is better for valves than the no-lead. If you're only doing light work, the lead won't make much of a difference. The real difference will come when you load up the engine at low speeds. If you do that a lot, you can erode your valve seats without lead. Lead coats the exhaust valve, so that it does not micro-weld itself to the seat.

Marvel Mystery Oil is wierd stuff. I heard of all kinds of good and bad rumors about it, with nothing confirmed. You may try a top lube, like STP. STP is a light grease that tends to stick to upper engine parts better.

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