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Long term Storage

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Bob(WI)

02-23-2003 13:04:09




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What is the best way to store a tractor? in this case a Farmall H with a loader and maybe a Farmall Cub, it will be stored inside a unheated building with a concrete floor, will be sitting anywhere from 1 to 5 years.




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Tim

02-24-2003 07:43:45




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
Contact your local Cat dealer. They make some additives to put in the oil to help prevent rust. They also have a procedure for putting equipment into long term storage.
Later,
Tim



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old fart

02-23-2003 23:16:49




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
Be careful about covering it up, my experience is the rodents like to invade worse when it is totally dark. As far as moth balls they work, but I have had good luck with downy clothes drier sheets in cabs and do not have such a carry over smell. Only thing you need someone to restock it every three to four months. Good luck



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Jim K

02-23-2003 17:33:49




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
We had a 50 cc motorcycle that we put on post for about 15 years. And we filled the crankcase with oil all the way to the top then pulled the plugs and filled the cylinders with good oil. After 15 years took off post and drained everthing and after 3 kick start it was running. Just my 2cents worth .



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IanC

02-23-2003 17:09:17




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
Not really any of my business, but sounds like you're getting ready for military deployment. If so, good luck and godspeed. I don't remember how expensive they were. but get a Hemmings Motor News, there used to be vendors who sold bags that you drove the car in and shopvaced, then sealed.



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Hugh MacKay

02-23-2003 16:50:03




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
Bob: After disagreeing with Bill, and I do like his suggestions other than those I mentioned. I felt I should be a bit more constructive. I bought a truck rear end and housing once, as I knew the one in my truck was less than healthy. I bought it for two reasons, price was right and it was in imaculate condition. I had no place convenient to store inside. I filled it right full to top with used gear oil. Turned pinion upward and placed a can over it. I had seen unused gear boxes turn rusty at oil surface in past. When it came time to use this rear end some 3 years later, I drained all the oil and it was still imaculate.

If I were you I would fill all tractor gear boxes right to top with used oil. I would fill hydraulic system right to top. I would fill cooling system right to cover with sufficient strength coolant for cold weather expected. If tractor is diesel fill it full. If is gas I would drain completely and fill with diesel. The diesel will evaporate less and will also be less volitile. Best way to avoid condensation damage is not leave a space for moisture.

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Ludwig

02-23-2003 16:41:48




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
I concur with Bill except that I'd top up all fluids and fuel. Then replace all when pulling from storage. After one year I'd probably only replace the engine oil and gas, and maybe not the gas if I'd used a goodly amount of a good quality fuel stabilizer. After a year and a half I'd think fluids would be starting to seriously break down and so I'd replace 'em all before starting up.
I'd definately block up, and definately drain any calcium from the tires, and pull any weights (that should be pretty obvious if you're planning on blocking up).
I'd also make sure every grease fitting got a good shot of grease and maybe put some good spray oil on too. Then get some "Fogging Oil" from your local snowmobile or motorcycle shop and spray 'er down the cylinders and crank it over a couple times, that'll keep the cylinders from rusting and help prevent the motor from freezing up.
Even if its inside it wouldn't hurt to put a tarp over the old girl. Then get some mesh bags and fill them with mothballs and tie them around the tractor under the tarp. That'll keep critters from building nests.

Oh, and plug the exhaust with something too, critters just love to get in there.

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Shovelman

02-23-2003 16:32:12




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
Bob,

The other fellows have made good points.

Some of my collection is stored for long periods, and this is how I proceed:

Change engine oil & filter. Drain, flush and refill coolant. Used oil and anti-freeze can become acidic over time, so I prefer to change it and leave it in.

Remove the spark plugs and pour several ounces of motor oil (not synthetic) into each cylinder. Turn engine over slowly with the plugs out to distribute the oil. Install plugs.

Seal the intake and exhaust with rags/tape to keep out moisture and rodents.

I have had good luck with Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer, but I would drain the tank, lines and carb if it was going to be longer than a year in storage.

As Bill recommended, block it up slightly off the ground, but do not deflate the tires.

Apply a light coating of grease to the loader cylinder rods. I spray LPS or WD-40 on distributor (or mag), plug wires and anything else I want to protect.

Tarp the tractor, including the tires, to protect it from direct sunlight, bird droppings, etc. However, do not wrap it tightly, as you want it to "breathe" and not trap any moisture under the tarp.

Good luck,
Scott

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BlueLite

02-23-2003 16:29:48




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
I'd drain the tranny and retop with clean oil. I'd put a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder
and crank that over a few times to get it sloshed
around real good. Don't worry about drenching the valves, they'll benefit with a good film of oil and burn off with the first firing. I'd do this once a year, crank it over. As one poster said here, it's a good idea to get the tires off the ground and let a little air out.

I had an old MH30 that sat in the field for 4 years with a tarp over the engine. I'd put some old crankcase oil (you'd be better off with clean oil) in each cylinder and turned it over once a year. Finally sold the engine to a guy who appreciated finding an unseized engine.

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smurph72

02-23-2003 15:44:25




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
I'd leave the tractor fuel tank full. Less room for condensation to occur. Then drain and refill after storage.

My 2 cents,
dcm



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Bill Smith

02-23-2003 13:30:54




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 Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bob(WI), 02-23-2003 13:04:09  
Well, storing for a year I wouldn't really consider long term. Pretty common for many operaters to let tractor sit for months without being used. If you know you are storing for upwards of say 2 to 3 years and longer, storing indoors would be a must. I would disconnect and remove battery, drain gas, drain coolant, and if it is possible for moisture to be in the oil type fluids from condensation I would drain all fluids. You may also want to consider blocking the tractor up so the wheel's are say an inch off the ground. This would prevent flat spots on tires and would reduce damage to tube and tire if it went flat from a really slow leak. If you have calcium chloride fluid in the tires you may want to remove it. It is very corrosive to rims if a leak should happen to accure. I am sure others will give you some more ideas.

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Hugh MacKay

02-23-2003 14:49:03




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 Re: Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bill Smith, 02-23-2003 13:30:54  
Bill:I must question the idea of draining fuel, coolant and oils. My thoughts are that condensation will occur regardless. The moisture from that condensation will be far less harmfull, having fuel, coolant or oil to mix with. Time to drain is when you take it out of storage.



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Bill Smith

02-23-2003 19:08:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Long term Storage in reply to Hugh MacKay, 02-23-2003 14:49:03  
I see your point on the fluids being left in. Both draining fluids and leaving full of fluid has advantages and disadvantages. The coolant for example, if left in and not circulated and after a certain point, the antifreeze started breaking down, would have to be checked periodically for its strength to insure that there isn't a freeze up. That would be avoided by draining. Fuel for another example gets real nasty after it has set for a long period of time. Kind of turns to a tar if left long enough. Evaporation or perhaps a fuel leak would put you back to 3/4 or 1/2 tank after long period of time wich leaving full wouldn't help much and could lead to a fire hazzard. Again a complete drain of the entire fuel system and minimal ventilation time shows some advantages. I guess it kind of boils down to whether you want to deal with sludge from fluids or rust from condensation when you get it out of storage. Before someone decides what to do I guess they should factor in there climate. If you are in the desert where there is no humidity you might want to drain all fluids, and if you are in a swamp region with high humidity you might want to fill everything up. And in between or up north you could probably go either way. I am not argueing but just seeing and agreeing with both sides of the fence here.

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NDS

02-24-2003 07:03:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bill Smith, 02-23-2003 19:08:31  
Bill actually we have much less problem with condensation in humid South than in Northern climates. I put a M back in service 2 years ago that had sat in pole barn for 30 years. This tractor was driven in shed and parked (coolant and gasoline were drained) period. Removed deck top and checked inside and there was absolutely 0 rust in there. Engine was free, squirted at little WD 40 in cylinders and let set a few days, fired it up and it runs fine with no oil useage. Only leak it had was oil leak behind govener. Gasoline tank was in good condition also. Tires would hold air put were badly cracked.

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Hugh MacKay

02-24-2003 07:45:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Long term Storage in reply to NDS, 02-24-2003 07:03:40  
I can believe that, here in the north it is the vast changes in temperature over the time frame of a year that causes the condensation. I grew up on the east coast of Canada in Nova Scotia. There we had a Canadian winter for the most part. South winds there however in mid winter would pick up effects of Gulf Stream out of Gulf of Mexico giving vast temperature changes. The worst I ever saw was -30F at 6am, at 6 pm +45F. 75 degrees F in 12 hours was not the norm. However when you entered the tractor shed at 6 pm tractors look like they have been rained on all day, just from frost coming out of steel. 30 degree fluxuation was common. Humidity tended to be high in that area also, but fluxuating temperature and high humidity make for a bad combination.

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Hugh MacKay

02-24-2003 02:06:45




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Long term Storage in reply to Bill Smith, 02-23-2003 19:08:31  
Bill: I can see your point of view. I guess it really depends on what you want to deal with at end of storage period. I also tend to jump on that condensation problem, being one that caused me some grief. I said on another discussion here at YT less than a week ago. These tractors are a bit like our own bodies, you either use it or loose it.

Have to agree with you on less than year storage I remember a guy, with livestock operation. He had 1970s 574 diesel and loader, I believe. He ran the 574 year around. Also, we used to call it a fleet of H and 300, about 8 of them all narrow fronts. All he used them for was making hay and spreading manure. You would see him in spring towing these old Farmalls out of shed. I think the only service they ever saw other than gas, oil and greese was when they quit He probably never put more than 200-300 hours per year on any one of them. People used to hassel him a bit, as he was well enough off finincially he could have bought all new tractors. His responce was those old gas Farmalls were the reason he had money.

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