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Water in Oil After Overhaul

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Bill(Tx)

09-12-1999 18:48:55




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Checked the oil for ring dust after 3 hours on the engine and found water also, probably 6 ounces. Then checked head bolts for 70 ft/lbs. All execept one were pretty close in the spec range. The front right bolt (nearest to generator) spun around and discovered the stud treads are stripped. I tried another stud from a spare block with the same result. Guess I'll have to try the heli coil. Any tips on using the heli coil repair? Would the stripped stud be contributing to the leak? Can I reuse the head gasket, and would damage be minimal with 3 hours on the engine? Grrr.

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Curt Cooke

09-13-1999 05:52:19




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 Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to Bill(Tx), 09-12-1999 18:48:55  
I don't think you should be concerned about a few ounces of water in the oil as far as engine damage is concerned. First of all 6 oz. is not much and water is slippery too. Heli-coil will work and there's really nothing to it. I would replace the head gasket with a new one, from the dealer if possible. I've had aftermarket head gaskets that just didn't work no matter what. Also be sure all threads of studs or bolts are lubricated and clean before torqueing; be sure the torque applied is stretching the stud and not just overcoming friction in the threads. Cheer up.

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Bill(Tx)

09-13-1999 13:23:16




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 Re: Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to Curt Cooke, 09-13-1999 05:52:19  
Thanks Curt, I'll get another gasket go after it again. The original gasket kit came from TISCO, do you think CaseIH would be better? Grainger sells multiple coil kits instead of just one or two. Would a good automotive supply store sell the coil and installation tool for just one application?



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Curt Cooke

09-14-1999 06:07:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to Bill(Tx), 09-13-1999 13:23:16  
Typically a "set" will consist of a tap, some coils and a tool to screw the coil in. You'll have to obtain your own drill bit, probably 17/32. I would get a new head gasket from IHC and give it a thin coat of Permatex Aviation gasket sealer.
Curt



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Village Blacksmith

09-13-1999 12:21:11




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 Re: Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to Curt Cooke, 09-13-1999 05:52:19  
Curt-you may be the first person I can remember that made the important point on torquing. Clean-lubricated-even the face of the nut. Good Point!



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ltf in nc

09-12-1999 19:59:32




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 Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to Bill(Tx), 09-12-1999 18:48:55  
Bill, since you have not dismantled the tractor engine possibly you can salvage what you have. Get a tap the correct size of the stripped bolt and carefully clean out the bad hole tapping it as deep as the tap will go. Use grease on the tap and the thread chips should stick between the flutes. Clean the hole with a magnet. Get a piece of threaded rod an screw it into the hole using two nuts jamed together to drive the rod. Observe how much deeper the rod threads into the hole as compared to the old bolt. It is essential for the rod to thread at least the diameter of the old bolt further in than the original bolt. Assuming this happens, now remove the threaded rod and clean the hole using solvent and air. Get a pack of JB Weld or Marine Tex(boat shop item) and follow instructions and apply liberally to the threaded rod starting about 3 full threads up from the end that goes in the block. Install the threaded rod until moderately tight and stop. Unjam the two nuts and torque the one next to the head. Cutoff the protruding unused portion of the threaded rod. After the cure time on the sealant is complete add a bottle of Barrs leak to the radiator and start the engine and let it run at least 15 minutes after the thermostat opens and check for water. I believe everything will be o k. If you ever need to remove the stud all that is necessary is to heat the threaded rod to 350+ degrees and the heat will destroy the epoxy.

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Bill(Tx)

09-13-1999 13:07:00




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 Re: Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to ltf in nc, 09-12-1999 19:59:32  
The stud is threaded differently at each end - block end is course, cylinder head is fine. Perhaps I'll use a 9/16" (I think) course thread head bolt. I forgot to mention it is an H I'm working on.



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ltf in nc

09-13-1999 16:55:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Water in Oil After Overhaul in reply to Bill(Tx), 09-13-1999 13:07:00  
Bill, whatever you do rethread the block the same as original. If you follow my suggestion just use a nut that will fit the threaded rod and is the same thread as the block.



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