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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Motor Break-in

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Bubba

10-04-2004 09:28:47




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Hay yall, this b Bubba. I just put my motor back in my M this weekend after a trip to the rebuild shop..

Question? How should I break it in: 1. take it easy for a while or 2. work the devil out of it?

I plan to run the oil for about 15 to 20 hrs, then change it and the filter.

Any Ideas are helpful

Thanks
Bubba




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K.B.-826

10-04-2004 19:35:24




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
If you checked an IH manual, it would tell you something similar to this- Start engine, check for oil pressure, check for leaks. Now, hook to the dyno and run half throttle 1/4 load for 20 min-half hour. Then go to 3/4 throttle, 1/2 load. for half an hour. Then go to full throttle, 3/4 load for half an hour. Now let it cool down for a couple minutes, shut it down, and retorque the head and reset the valves as soon as it is cool enough to work on. Then start it up, warm it up for a couple minutes, then go for full throttle full load, for at least an hour, the longer the better.

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old don

10-04-2004 18:39:21




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
Bubba, I think with the newer oils that are out there now I think everyone is right, all these years with all the new vehicles I've had and following their directions none of them have used oil or had a problem ie; I bought a new F-150 4.6L in 1996 they told me to drive at all speeds for the first 1000miles and I did including 100mph to set the computer then they would change the oil then drive as I would normally do and that was 120,000 miles ago and it doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes. I bought a new Harley in 2002 and they said to drive the first 800miles not to exceed 55mph and never go over 3000rpm after that it was ok. That was 20,000miles ago and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I rebuilt a 1979 chevy 4X4 400ci and immediately took it to the street and smoked the tires on it and at 100,000 does not use a drop of oil between changes.You tell me.

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gusc

10-04-2004 15:35:38




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
Bubba,

The only thing that needs breaking in is the rings and cyl walls. The rings must have enough pressure to expand against the cyl walls to seat well and any no load condition will not do this.

Do not run the engine at idle for more than just a few seconds to look for leaks.

DO NOT EVER run an engine at high idle or high speed without a load. This will ensure that the rings never break in and that the cyl walls will have a permanent glaze that will result in poor compression and high oil consumption. I understand that there is one exception to this for racing engines. Never had anything to do with them so can't say one way or another.

The posters who advised you to put it under a medium load know what they are talking about.

Run it for about a half hour under medium load and watch the temp. Do not let it overheat for more than a minute or two. Sometimes new engines will get hot from blowby but only for a short time. Once the rings set that will end.

I have used this method on tractor, auto, truck and airplane engines and it has always worked. In the case of airplanes we pull them out to the runway, start them up, and take off. They are even harder to break in because they are air cooled.

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Aces

10-04-2004 10:25:59




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
Bubba the best engines I ever saw went right to the field on plow or dick hard work just don't get it hot and keep an eye on the oil.



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Allan in NE

10-04-2004 10:01:33




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
Bubba,

That break in worry is kind of a thing of the past anymore. Here's the way the big boys tell you to do it:

After the engine is warm and set to specs, pull the throttle wide open and run for 10-15 seconds then back to idle and run for another 10-15 seconds.

Repeat this procedure for 10 cycles.

Then just use the outfit as normal.

Allan



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steveormary

10-04-2004 09:45:04




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
Bubba;

We used to break in tractors hauling manure. Light load,heavy load. Broke in a Super M on a 3 bottom plow in alfalfa. Otherwise in later years broke them in under normal use. Never worked any of them real hard at first.

steveormary



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steveormary

10-04-2004 09:45:04




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
Bubba;

We used to break in tractors hauling manure. Light load,heavy load. Broke in a Super M on a 3 bottom plow in alfalfa. Otherwise in later years broke them in under normal use. Never worked any of them real hard at first.

steveormary



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gene

10-04-2004 09:43:54




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
My opinion. Just take it easy for a while. I just wouldn't put a prolonged heavy loads on the engine, like plowing, until after you changed the break in oil.

Gene



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captaink

10-04-2004 09:40:37




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 Re: Motor Break-in in reply to Bubba, 10-04-2004 09:28:47  
The best luck I’ve had breaking in a new motor is the following:

30 minutes about 1/3 governed speed, no load
20 minutes 2/3 governed speed, no load
20 minutes 1/2 governed speed road gear on level road
20 minutes full throttle road gear on level road
30 minutes full throttle 1/3 load
30 minutes full throttle 2/3 load
30 minutes full throttle full load (not overloaded) engine should maintain rated RPM 90% of the time.

After the above, work the tractor like normal varying load and engine speed and avoiding prolonged idling and overloading the first 100 hrs or so. I like to use light oil (10-10W) the fist 10 hours changing oil and filters at 10, 50 and 100 hours. After 10 hours use oil you normally would use.

Good luck.

I have noted that prolonged light loads especially on diesels does not seat the rings very well.

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