Farmall C with sickle bar

I used to ride on my Uncle's Farmall C when I was a boy back in the 50's so there's some nostalgia welling up that may be clouding my wisdom :-)

Thanks for helping a newbie!

Bob

The sickle bar apparently attaches with two large clamps to the rear axle. Apparently it doesn't have much angle adjustment. The hydraulics lift it about 10" off the ground.

I'm hoping to see it this afternoon.

The only negative he was aware of was that the brakes are not quick stoppers. Are the brakes a difficult replacement/rebuild? From the photos of other C's the brakes must be inboard of the wheels?

Thanks again for all the info and help folks. I'm thinking this is going to be the beginning of another restoration project :-)

Bob

I’m not sure about the one post about weeds being hard on a mower, I’ve got one of the first IH 1100 mowers and don’t have any problems with getting through tall sunflowers, ragweed, hay, small trees, or electric fence posts on occasion! (Oops). For hay I use under-serrated sections, sharpen them often and make sure the ledger plate area of the guard is not round. Good sicle clamps help a lot too!

Adjusting the rear wheels-- I'm assuming means jacking up the rear axle and somehow sliding the hubs into position? Is this a "don't try this at home" operation requiring special tools, or fairly straight forward?

Thanks again,
Bob

Bob

The field was cut up to last year for hay, but the neighbor sold his horses and no longer needed it. This year it was going to be cut/bailed for mulch, but because of all the rain we had, the gentleman never was unable to get to it. Soooo, it's been growing wild for two years. It's got some hay, lots of weeds, and the occasional florabunda (sp?) rose bush in it.

Do you think the sickle bar would cut through it? Or would I risk damage?

I'm also leary of the side hill issues. It was farmed for decades before we bought it without incident as far as I know. Is there some sage advice about traversing side hills that can keep me out of trouble?

Thanks again!

Bob

Trying to mow brush or heavy weeds with a sickle bar mower is a real good way to break it. A brush hog would be the right tool for the job if you just want to keep things knocked down.

Bob

You will probably break a few sections off trying to mow isolated stems larger than 1/2" diameter, depending on the species. Little elms can be tough.

Wild rose is a problem if it is a large clump, but two years should not be too bad unless they have been a growing problem for several years.

If there is something you can't mow, go around it. You can clean it up later with a rotary mower or by hand.

But remember all the cutting parts, including the sections (triangles), section guards, ledger plates (cutting plates on the guards), backing bar the sections rivit to, pitman arm (unless you have a pitmanless like a 100 or 1100) and drive bushings are all consumable and will wear and break.

Buy parts before you start, including section rivets or bolts, learn how to change sections in the field, and don't be discouraged when something breaks. We farm because we like breaking down, especially in the heat and when rain is threatening. Experienced farmers have to go and get something welded regularly.

The idea of mowing around things should probably have occured to me but probably wouldn't have, sigh. I'm not sure what kind of sickle bar is attached to the tractor, but hopefully parts will be available. Having them on hand in advance again seems like wise counsel!

Thanks Andy, Bob

Mower parts are available through farm supply stores.

At the top of the list was

"I enjoy getting stuck".