Alternator/Generator

If so I'm going to make the conversion. The generator is not original. It is a 12 volt un
it off a 70's era car. Thanks

As to your one-wire alternator: My observations as to how well they work seems to depends on who you talk to, or how the alternator was set up. Some one-wire alternators seem to work well - as well as a 3-wire. Some seem to have all kinds of problems. The one issue that seems to be common is that one-wire alternators need more RPM to start charging than a 3-wire would need under the same circumstances. I suspect this is what you are seeing on your WC.

As said by others here, try switching to a 3-wire. Odds are that it will work better for you than the one-wire alternator.

Run a wire from the BAT terminal on the alternator to the #2 terminal on the alternator.

Run a wire from the + side of the kill switch (same side as the wire that runs to the + side of the coil) to the #1 terminal on the alternator.

To prevent a drain on the battery, wire a 1 amp, 50 volt diode (Radio Shack 1N4003 - banded end toward the alt) inline in the wire that runs to the #1 terminal on the alternator.

All these new wires can be 16 or 18 gauge.

You can use female spade connectors to connect the wires to the #1 and #2 terminals on the alt.

If you have a 10SI alt, you can loosten the four bolts that hold it in its current 'clock' position and rotate the back half of the shell, if you need to point the wires down to avoid hitting the hood.
Be careful not to pull the back half too far back as the brushes will pop out of their holders and you'll need to reinstall them.

I converted from a one to three-wire setup so my alternator would start charging immediately at low RPMs. Some tasks with my tractor wouldn't require higher RPMs and the alt would never kick in. With the diode, I don't need to disconnect the battery during down-time.

Hope this helps.