Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Farmal M, liftall questions (start w/ the basics..

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
bob 4knee

05-17-2005 11:36:40




Report to Moderator

Hi,

I recently obtained an M, with an F-10 loader on it. The loader hydraulics are powered by a pump which is driven by the PTO. I"m interested in getting a mower to drag along behind the M (with the loader off), and began to investigate the built in hydraulic system (the operators manual calls it a "lift all", the repair manual seems to be temporarily misplaced).

On the left side of the tractor, I have the two elbows coming out, and there is about a foot or two of rigid line/pipe on each with a coupler (looks like a hydraulic line would attach). The single right hand port is capped off. The lever that looks like it would be used to engage this system looks slightly different than the one in the manual, in that it has two holes (for a clevis pin to attach) instead of one. Where the manual shows a breather cap with a removable plug or nipple, mine is just a solid cap. The manual seems to say that there is a dipstick of sorts built into this cap, but I have none. If I pull the lever back and hook it on the second notch, I can (after cleaning the grease and dirt out of the coupler) push in on the ball in the center of either of the left hand side (LHS) couplers. No hydraulic pressure. I have not tried having someone else hold this lever all the way back, just resting it on the stop. I can"t hear any change in the sound with it engaged or disengaged.

So, how can I figure out if it"s working and fix it if it"s not?

First, It probably needs fluid, but not too much. There seems to be a plug partway up (or partway down from the fill), as one would use to check the level (and fill) a manual transmission. Of course, there are several of these all over the tractor, so I"m not sure which one goes w/ which reservoir. The book says use 30 wt oil? Given our more modern options, would some sort of hydaulic fluid be better?

Is this the right way to start? Don"t be afraid to point out the obvious (you won"t hurt my feelings). I"m not sure exactly how the system is supposed to work when it"s working. Note that although I"m (very) new to tractors, but I do know my way around cars and motorcycles when it comes to turning the wrenches (albeit much smaller wrenches, I"m gonna need all new tools!).

Thanks in advance,

Bob 4knee

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Tractor Tom

05-17-2005 18:10:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmal M, liftall questions (start w/ the basi in reply to bob 4knee, 05-17-2005 11:36:40  
Williamf gave you some good basics and let me add that if you do go with 30 wt not detergent, it's a little thicker than typical hydraulic oil and might not leak (as much) past worn seals. They are supposed to have a dip stick under the mushroom type cap but I found 2 broken off down in my reservoir. William is also correct on the pressure if it has the "upgraded" version. The earlier models only put out 400 to 500 psi. If you don't already have an operators manual, to operate, pull the long rod all the way back (rearward) for full pressure, then release and the rod should stop with the small welded pin at a right angle preventing it from returning completely back down. This holds the load in place (unless your valves leak). To release pressure, lift the rod to clear the pin stop and push it back down. The hydraulics are only pressure lift, gravity drop. BTW, the clutch must be out for it to work. Here is a link with an exploded drawing for an H, an M is similar.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Tractor Tom

05-17-2005 18:13:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmal M, liftall questions (start w/ the basi in reply to Tractor Tom, 05-17-2005 18:10:53  
It didn't look like the link worked, I'll try again: Link



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
williamf

05-17-2005 14:50:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmal M, liftall questions (start w/ the basi in reply to bob 4knee, 05-17-2005 11:36:40  
Here's a few basics. All three of the ports, the two on the left and the one on the right, can be used. The one on the left closer to the rear is delayed reaction for front mounted cultivators. Use the other two. There is no check plug - the one you've found is for something else. If it's on the left near the clutch pedal it's likely for the front section of the transmission/rear end case. There's another for the rear end proper. If the dipstick is gone you have to estimate. The H liftall takes six quarts, I think the M is the same.
There's a drain plug at the bottom. Drain what's in it, fill with six quarts of fluid, stick a clean stick down the fill tube to see where full is.
If the fill tube has a solid cap, with no vent, I think you'd have to replace it before using the unit.
The manual says 30wt nondetergent, some people say that regular hydraulic oil, being thinner, won't give as much pressure. Mine gives 750psi with hyd. oil, which is close to the 800psi that is spec for the liftall. The liftall is powered by a shaft that comes back to it from the transmission. It only has power when the clutch pedal is not pushed down. There should be a plate covering a hole in the bottom of the housing between the liftall unit and the transmission. If you take that plate off you can see whether or not the shaft is in place. If there's oil in the liftall, the shaft is turning, and when you pull back on the lever you don't hear a change then there is something wrong that exceeds the scope of "the basics." But maybe this'll get you started.
Good luck, Wm

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob4knee

05-17-2005 20:50:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Farmal M, liftall questions (start w/ the basi in reply to williamf, 05-17-2005 14:50:52  
Thanks,

I'll look into removing that plate this weekend. Mine has two of those stops welded along the rod (so it's got three places it will stay, down, up one notch, up 2) and also can be pulled all the way back.

I guess I'll remove the drain plug (after finding the shop manual), see what comes out. Then put some fluid in, and see what I hear and see. (I'll leave the cap off for testing). Then I'll know if it's working (and I need to look for small parts like the cap) or if it's not working (and I need to ask for more advice and look for big parts...


Thanks,

Bob

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy