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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Farmall B restoration

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bshannon

04-04-2006 11:26:44




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Brought a little B up from Texas to the cold north. Now hope it can be restored. Got the sheet metal off and the spark plugs came out easy, Squirted in "sea foam" on the recommendation of the local auto parts store, now we'll have to see how long it will take for it to free up. Any suggestions or help would be welcomed as this is a first time project!




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Gary Beal

04-07-2006 22:29:00




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 Re: Farmall B restoration in reply to bshannon, 04-04-2006 11:26:44  
You can try one more thing that has worked for me on really hard stuck motors, put about two tablespoons of amonia down each sparkplug hole. Be patient, this may take a few days to work.



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El Toro

04-05-2006 08:02:27




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 Re: Farmall B restoration in reply to bshannon, 04-04-2006 11:26:44  
I would pull the engine, it's a lot easier to work
on when you don't have to lay on your back. I would take a few pictures before and during the restoration. It's a lot easier to separate all the bolts, nuts and parts from an area of the tractor and identify where it was removed. Cardboard boxes are good containers and are free
and can be marked with a magic marker. Hal



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old

04-04-2006 13:35:07




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 Re: Farmall B restoration in reply to bshannon, 04-04-2006 11:26:44  
I agree with Hal, tranny fluid and or a mix of tranny fluid and turpentine. If that doesn't work after a week or so you might pull the head and then top that off with a tablespoon of gas and light the gas. Be careful if you do the gas thing and be out side and have a way to put it out if need be. What that does is heats up the block but doesn't heat the rings or piston. The last one I freed up I had to do that and still when it popped loose #2 sleeve came up and out of the block and took my 12 ton press to get it out of the sleeve.

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El Toro

04-04-2006 12:57:01




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 Re: Farmall B restoration in reply to bshannon, 04-04-2006 11:26:44  
I would use transmission fluid and let it soak. I would pull the head and drop the oil pan too.
If doesn't free up after a week of soaking. I would unbolt the connecting rod cap that is vertical to the engine and use a 2X2 piece of oak
and a big hammer and tap on that rod to see if it will move. Don't pound too hard as you don't want to damage the block. These are wet sleeves and they will sometimes come out with piston inside. Just use a torch to heat the sleeve and your piston will probably slide out. You can probably use the old rods on your new pistons. I did that on a Farmall A. Hal

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Janicholson

04-04-2006 12:25:36




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 Re: Farmall B restoration in reply to bshannon, 04-04-2006 11:26:44  
If the exhaust system was open to weather, there may be more effort required to free it up. it is easy to bend rods and break cranks if the pistons stopped at near tdc/bdc. Stick a piece of coat hanger down the cylinders, if two are way up, and two way down, I would be very gentile on efforts to unstick the engine. Putting it in 4th gear and rocking the back tire once in a while to bump the engine is all I would suggest. (do not try to pull start it). Make sure there is oil in it. Unless it was running within two years, I would pull the Valve cover and make syre all rockers pushrods, and valves are free, and oily. Pushing down on the valve with a small pry bar (1/8" or less) works well.
good luck, be gentile.
JimN

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