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Yes sorta, when all parts are new and Straight almost enny type of gasket will seal. After years of use and the seal’in surface gits deformed then its hard to apply a clamping force across the gasket that will perform well. Were you have a tin pan (valve cover, timing cover, oil pan, Bull gear covers etc) you will need to straiten out the bolt holes best as you kin and git the sealing surface flat as possible. If you have a paper gasket you can apply a very thin coat of silicon (automotive type) to git a good long lasting seal. People think a little izz good so a lot izz better and kame the mistake of gobb’in it on and make a mess and to much kin also git into the engine and restrict a oil passage. I don’t like to redo my werk so I make the decision on how I apply a sealer or whether I use a gasket at all an go with a sealer. Its hard to recommend a practice that took me years to learn cuzz I am not sure how the inexperienced will take it.
A note I have on sealers and gaskets on my web site that I am werk’in on
Everyone will have hiz preference and its what werks fer them. Once apon a time we only had liquid sealers and they werked and still werk. Then came paste type sealers and they werk and still werk, then specialized sealers and they werk and still werk. I have all types in the shop and they all have one thing in common they must have a clean surface to bond to. I like the gray or black silicon for most applications. The blue izz still around but old technology and it never did like oil and the clear did not either. One thing to consider izz does the gasket have enny thing to do with clearance as to how the part fits if so then a gasket izz needed to set the clearance. A oil pump cover needs the correct gasket to set the clearance so use a gasket. If no gasket izz required then the use of a sealer izz up to the installer.. Day to day I install, water pumps if they use a gasket I glue it to the pump with 3M 8001 yeller gorilla snot, and smear a lite coat of gray silicon to the face of the gasket that meets the block for insurance and iffin I replace the pump the gasket will not stick to the block . Sum pumps used today on newer cars don’t have a gasket and use silicon. If in a jam I would use silicon on a N water pump if no gasket wuz on hand. If the pump cover were pitted I would use silicon to fill in the imperfections. On cork I only put sealer on the joints enny sealer added to the cork will make it slicker than snot on a door knob and cause the cork to squeezes out and break. Only glue cork to one surface (3M 8001) and seal the joints. If the cork does not seal of I don’t feel it will or I don’t want to take a chance I use gray silicon and no gasket. Everyone izz rite on what they told ya it werks fer them so you will have to try it. I have to warranty what I do so use what werks fer me and still git bit from time to time. there are 5 sealants that hang around my werk table all the time, #1) Permatex 599BR grey silicon, #2) Permatex High temp silicon, #3)Mopar AXLE -RTV, #4) Loctite 515 gasket eliminator (don’t use it much enny more) #5) Permatex aviation form a gasket, mite as well add copper coat that I use to use and now got back to use’in on the N head gaskets. Sum brake clean to clean the surface a good razer blade in a tool holder to scrape with will git’em’ done. Clean bright and thigh applies her also
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