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Replacing Points - CUB

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TonyP

07-03-2007 08:06:14




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Couldn't get the cub started this morning and spark is dead. Parts are really old so we'll replace points, coil, cap, rotor, condenserjust to get electrical up to snuff..

Had a couple questions:
1. Does the distributor need to be removed to access the points? There is a screw on the side of the distributor facing the block that seems like it needs to be removed to get to the screw to remove the plate of the distributor to access the points?
2. What should I use for a ballst resisitor and where is it?? I take it that it is between the coil and the ignition??

THanks,
Tony

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TonyP

07-03-2007 14:38:24




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 Re: Replacing Points - CUB in reply to TonyP, 07-03-2007 08:06:14  
Thanks guys..

She's running again on the first crank.. The coil read, "no external resistor needed" and the one replacedsaid, "external resistor required".. Didn't seem to make any difference.

To the fella that suggested cleaning the points one of the contacts was cracked and destroyed.

Thanks again for the input..

Tony



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old

07-03-2007 09:21:26




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 Re: Replacing Points - CUB in reply to TonyP, 07-03-2007 08:06:14  
Do not pull the distubutor or you will be in even more trouble since its easy to knock it out of time if you do that. Take the cap off then the rotor then the points cover. Easy to do on the tractor and as Hal says try cleaning them first



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El Toro

07-03-2007 09:06:02




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 Re: Replacing Points - CUB in reply to TonyP, 07-03-2007 08:06:14  
Why don't you try cleaning the points with a piece of 320 wet or dry until they are shiny. They are probably just oxidized. Hal



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glennster

07-03-2007 08:59:15




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 Re: Replacing Points - CUB in reply to TonyP, 07-03-2007 08:06:14  
you dont need to pull the distributor to change the points on the i-h dist. pull the cap off, remove the rotor, then the dust shield, (its a black bakelite cover. you can see the points then, should be a couple screws to hold pints to breaker plate. if its a 6volt system, you shouldnt need the ballast resistor. if you need one, go to napa and get one for an early 1970's b body chrysler car. they are only a couple dollars and do the job real good.

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A. Bohemian

07-03-2007 10:00:34




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 Don't Go In Blind! in reply to glennster, 07-03-2007 08:59:15  
Before you start replacing stuff willy-nilly, try the following:

Switch on the ignition, but don't crank. You should see approximately four amps discharge on the dashboard ammeter.

No discharge? Points are not making good contact or there is an open somewhere else in the sytem.

Normal discharge? Crank the motor. The ammeter should flutter as the points open and close.

No flutter? The points are not opening or are shorted; or there is a short elsewhere in the system.

Finally, unless you already understand the Kettering system, you should probably do some reading from the articles at left.

Quote: "...go to napa and get one for an early 1970's b body chrysler car..."

Thanks, glennster! That kind of info is ALWAYS nice to have!

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