Inconvenient Truths

My own grandfather, who was a certified Deisel mechanic, and used to routinely machine his own parts for the bulldozers, dragline, etc. in his earth moving business, would drive the tractors into his shop in town to work on the hydraulics, as he simply couldn't keep things clean enough in any of the barns on either farm.

In any event, it is difficult to conceive of someone undertaking the job without either EXTENSIVE experience with these things, or at least TWO manuals. The IT IH-8 manual contains much of the information you need. But you should also read the sections of the Owner's Manual (you can get one from your Case dealer) that deal with the operation and lubrication of the Touch Control system.

In any event, as the subject line implies, none of this is difficult, it just requires a little thought and effort. With a clean space, the correct tools and techniques, manuals, and a good working relationship with the man on the other side of the parts counter, many people without formal training have fixed agricultural hydraulic systems. Some may be quick to tell you you don't need some or all of these things; but each one GREATLY increases the chance of an inexperienced mechanic SUCCESSFULLY undertaking repair of such a complex and unusual system.

Me? I've never had a major hydraulic problem, but if I did, I'd drive straight to our local Case dealer, who does a good job supporting these older tractors.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but over the past 50 years of life, I've managed to pick up on a few things:)!

I rebuilt the hyd. reservoir on my SA and I think the SC has the same unit....or very, very similar.

It does not require a brain surgeon or an extensive shop. In fact, I found it to be dirt simple and a straight forward repair. Yes, be clean...and then use a dose of horse sense (follow instructions).

I took my unit off the tractor, lugged it over to the bench and started CLEANING the exterior first. When I had it crud free, I cleaned the bench. I laid down a sheet of cardboard, got my book out and started turning bolts.

Now, I was out to fix leaks. The unit worked fine otherwise. Therefore, I didn't mess with the stop positions you mention (if it ain't broke, don't fix it). When all the guts were out and identified and laid out in the order they were removed, I looked them over real close and then looked at them again. The spools go in, in reverse from one side to the other.....hmmm. Makes sense...one is for up, one is for down. I replaced all the O rings, cleaned the innards with carb cleaner...got it squeaky clean and blowed it out. I put ATF on the spools and shoved them back in place. The heads were reset and so forth and when all was back together, I shot new paint to it. Damn thing looked like it came from a first class shop when I was done. I remounted the unit, hooked everything up good and proper and filled the system with ATF. It has worked perfectly ever since. No leaks, no hums....just up and down on demand. Somewhere along the way to grandma's house, you installed something wrong or let crud plug something up. I fear the former more than the latter. Take it apart again and really pay attention to how everything comes apart....make sure the spools come out/went back in the right way.....you can put them in reversed. They are just pistons, but if they don't pass the intake or relief ports correctly, the fluid doesn't flow right. Be patient and take your time...you'll fix it, I'm sure.