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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Brian Jensen

10-03-2007 01:04:14




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Ok, just got in from the barn, wanted to give everyone an update. I set the valve lash to 0.019 cold replaced valve cover, put carb back together and back in, set timing bang on, double checked the point gap made sure rotor was pointing at #1, scrapped the B&S inline filter and went straight line to carb, put some gas in and it tries REALLY hard to run now, fired up effortlessly, don't have the air cleaner hooked up to the intake manifold and I got a couple of puffs of smoke out of the opening but it levelled off. But... it still will not stay running on gas, I really feel like I am beating a dead horse now because I am so close yet still so far. Any other ideas what I should be doing or checking? It is so close that I can almost hear that not-so-familiar-anymore sound of kicking it over to diesel and smoking out my barn. What can I possibly be doing wrong or what have I possibly overlooked?

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chuck46

10-03-2007 12:49:27




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 01:04:14  
Hi Brian, I have not seen anyone mention the fuel screen in the carb. If you have not remove the gas line from the carb, there is another brass nut screwd into the carb with a gas strainer built on it. Good luck, Chuck



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Brian Jensen

10-03-2007 12:51:55




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 Re: Update in reply to chuck46, 10-03-2007 12:49:27  
Thanks Chuck I checked that this morning, actually I removed it this morning it looked pretty clogged up so I am going to run filterless until I find a good gravity fed filter.



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Chuck46

10-03-2007 12:55:18




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 12:51:55  
HI again, They seem to be sufficent, Clean it with an airgun and put it back unless damaged. I wouldn't run without it.



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Brian Jensen

10-03-2007 10:15:38




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 01:04:14  
Ok I pulled the fuel line, lots of flow coming through (It is a brand new fuel line as of this morning). When I open up the valve on the bottom of the bowl I have good flow as well, not as good as just the fuel line but still a steady stream, I had jst split the carb yesterday and cleaned everything out as I had not done it yet since I got the new carbs cleaned the needle and seat and made sure the float was working (all check ok). I have really strong vacuum at the intake but putting my hand over it, it is not getting wet even on a full bowl. but I know fuel is going through by the amount of exhaust coming out. When there is no fuel there is just tiny puffs of exhaust coming out and it will not open the rain cap which it will do when the bowl is full. I blew air through the intake manifold when I had it off to make sure that no furry creatures made a home of it while it was off. maybe I will run something through it to make sure it is not restricted at all. Any suggestions for getting better fuel flow? I also put a fuel cut-off switch in so I don't have to drain my tank after every attempt. The exhaust smells really rich, is there anything I can do to combat this since I am dealing with a non-adjustable carb?

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Janicholson

10-03-2007 12:04:50




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 10:15:38  
These engines need to be rich to run. The efficiency of the gasoline ingine operation would kill an EPA employee at 300 yards. To get combustable mixtures to the wierd sparkplugs through the tiny starting valve is a difficult proposition. The removal of exhaust gasses from that poor breathing location is also mediocre.
Rich is needed. Do not think it is too rich, or compare it to any normal 4 stroke. It loves rich.
The Magneto timing needs to be done so that the impulse coupling fires at tdc. The archives here will describe magneto timing, but the triggering ov the impulse coupling has to occur much later than the run position of the points. JimN

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Brian Jensen

10-03-2007 12:15:08




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 Re: Update in reply to Janicholson, 10-03-2007 12:04:50  
Thankfully I am magneto free on mine :) That sounds like a whole other headache that I am glad I don't have. I noticed that my intake manifold was leaking fuel on the 3-4 end so I pulled it all off... looks like the paper that is between the 2 pieces of tin is finaly giving up the ghost, where oh where can one find these things? Or can I make my own replacement gaskets? If so, which material would you recommend? I pulled the intake manifold and it was dripping with fuel I pushed a piece of wire through it and confirmed that it is clear. I figured I would pull the plugs again while I had that off since you have to pull the intake to get 2 and 3 out of their holes, I tested the plugs and one of them came up semi-fouled only firing very intermittently, replaced it with a known good plug. Could the intake valve leaking be causing me enough vacuum loss that it could cause a no start or hard start? Or should I be looking past the intake to find out why the fuel was building up and not burning? It is VERY likely that I flooded it and caused this although I have been very easy on the choke. Frustration is mounting again, thanks for sticking this through with me :)

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Janicholson

10-03-2007 12:25:41




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 12:15:08  
Gaskets can be made, but if it is the main intake/exhaust gasket to the head, I would use a new one, as there needs to be metal at the ports.
Don't be afraid of choking it. Mine required deep grey black smotk to come alive. It is not pretty. Using a propane torch to add gaseous fuel to the intake (take the burner off the pipe)can assist richening the mix. Once you get the hang of it it will run, I promise. JimN

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Brian Jensen

10-03-2007 12:54:33




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 Re: Update in reply to Janicholson, 10-03-2007 12:25:41  
Could I take the old gaskets and scrape all the paper out of them and refill them with high heat silicone? Just an idea, because it is looking less likely I will find a set around here.



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Brian Jensen

10-03-2007 12:30:22




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 Re: Update in reply to Janicholson, 10-03-2007 12:25:41  
Do we know what the availability of the parts are? Case website says they are indeed a stocked part, I guess I will just have to call them and find out. I tried the propane torch and was blessed with fireballs and combustion in the intake valve.



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Michael Soldan

10-03-2007 06:06:59




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 01:04:14  
I agree with Janicholson, many people are fooled by seeing fuel and believing they have an ample flow. The flow must be continuous and with volume, let it run for a good minute to make sure it doesn't tail off. I remember helping a friend with a tractor problem and I asked if he had fuel flow, he assured me he did, finally after exhausting all ideas I said lets check the fuel flow...about three to four drops a second after the initial gush..couldn'ta run a chainsaw on that flow..I always tell folks the flow should be like you peed when you were 16 and full of beer!!!

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Janicholson

10-03-2007 05:48:56




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 01:04:14  
If you pull the fuel line off of the carb, and put it into a tincan, will gas flow out of it like running through a soda straw? If so will it do this when the carb is hooked up and the bowl is removed, just letting fuel in through the needle and seat? If either are slow to a trickle, the system needs to be cleaned out. These things take an emense flow of gasoline to run. Though I am not at your side, I owned an MD for years, and a TD20 longer, and if they get fuel and spark, they run. JimN, staying with you

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El Toro

10-03-2007 04:23:34




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 Re: Update in reply to Brian Jensen, 10-03-2007 01:04:14  
You should hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and see there's good suction on your hand and it should wet your hand. You need good intake manifold vacuum to pull that atomized fuel
into the engine. Hal



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