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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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crank pounding M

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Bob Kerr

11-05-2007 10:25:07




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I drove the M home 40 miles yesterday (and froze my but off) and as I got closer to home I noticed it sounded like the crank was rattling a bit at low rpm going from a start. I have had the oil pan off and looked at the mains and noticed they are not like ones in an automotive engine but I just took a quick look at them. How are the rear and front mains removed while in the tractor? the plan is to pull the mains and see what size is in there and get new bearings. I just hope I don"t have to split it.

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Mike Farmer

11-07-2007 05:06:40




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 Re: crank pounding M in reply to Bob Kerr, 11-05-2007 10:25:07  
Hi. Is this a toy or a working tractor? It is possible to change the main bearings without splitting the machine and all the advice so far given is good. But! You can't measure the crankshaft wear either total or ovality without removal so you could easily knock new bearings out very quickly. My manual says quote"Replacing the crankshaft main bearings without removing the crankshaft should only be done in an emergency blah, blah etc. So whilst its a pain if there is any doubtI would just split it. MTF

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Bob Kerr

11-06-2007 08:04:10




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 Re: crank pounding M in reply to Bob Kerr, 11-05-2007 10:25:07  
Thanks guys! When I looked at it it looked like the rear main was also part of the pan seal rail and I didn"t see normal bolt heads. I will look at it closer when I go ahead and pull the pan back off to change them.



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Nat 2

11-05-2007 13:08:01




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 Re: crank pounding M in reply to gene bender, 11-05-2007 10:25:07  
How to remove the mains while in the tractor? You don't. Engine has to come out of the tractor.



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Nebraska Kirk

11-05-2007 17:28:25




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 Re: crank pounding M in reply to Nat 2, 11-05-2007 13:08:01  
You don"t have to remove the engine to replace main bearings. Just loosen all the main bearing cap bolts, take one bearing cap off at a time, take a flat screwdriver and push against the upper bearing shell and it should roll out, it sometimes helps to turn the crank as you are pushing against the bearing shell. Install the new shell the same way.



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Janicholson

11-05-2007 18:33:16




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 Re: crank pounding M in reply to Nebraska Kirk, 11-05-2007 17:28:25  
There are also "T" shaped zinc devices which are placed in the oil drilling to roll out the upper shell. Some have a flexible Top to the T so angled holes are accommodated. Great tool cheap. JimN



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Harold Hubbard

11-06-2007 03:01:58




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 Re: crank pounding M in reply to Janicholson, 11-05-2007 18:33:16  
A nail stuck in the oil hole works almost as well as the commercial tool. Aluminum is better than steel as it will not scratch anything.



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