Pete,When doing a conversion to an alternator, the output wire from the alternator can be connected to the wire FORMERLY connected to the "BATT" terminal on the old voltage regulator that was used with the generator. The actual old voltage regulator is NOT used. A "3-wire" alternator will begin to charge at lower RPM's than a "one-wire" alternator. SOME "one-wire" alternators are more prone to slowly discharge the battery during periods of non-use than a standard "3-wire" alternator. "3-wire alternators are generally CHEAPER than the "one-wire" units. (I have used MANY $10 "recycled units in old tractor conversions.) The alternators were designed and sold by GM as "3-wire" units. The one-wire units are an aftermarket invention to make it "easy" for electrically-challenged folks to get a system up and running, with some tradeoffs. The diode has NOTHING to do what what's in the coil, or it's resistance. It is to prevent the engine from continuing to run when the ignition switch is turned "off", AND to prevent damage to the alternator's internal components. You need to use a diode, OR an "idiot light" OR a resistor (about 10 Ohms, 10 Watts) in the lead to the #1 "excite" terminal on the alternator. Any ONE of those three options will work, and work equally well.
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