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Trying to get a 330U running

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Bringselpup

04-30-2008 18:00:18




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Ok I have to say I spent nearly 14 hours today working on the tractor and I am going to need painkillers just to go to sleep tonight. I spent a substantial amount of time with the loader frame smashed against my face as I worked on distributor and carburetor. I had no spark and no gas. 3 trips to the dealer and now I have gas gushing out of my carb. I bought new gaskets and a needle valve assembly. The needle valve doesn't look like the same one that came out of the carb.
I have weird spark. If I put a plug wire in the coil and clamp a plug to the frame for a good ground I don't get fire until I shut off the key. Then I get a good shot. I get nothing if I move the wire to the plug connectionon the dist cap. I searched and found info about shorts being common in the distributor side terminal to the coil. How on earth do you even begin to work on it with the loader frame there?

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Bringselpup

05-06-2008 18:56:28




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  
Ok good to know I can leave the distributor alone now. I bought it some Autolite 3116 plugs yesterday. Still waiting on the dealer to produce the sediment bowl assembly I ordered last week and they promised would be in yesterday.



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Bringselpup

05-01-2008 20:41:30




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to r4etired, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  

Janicholson said: (quoted from post at 23:27:21 05/01/08) That would sure do it, Going beyond the obvious is profoundly the mark of intellect. JimN


That, or just plain cussed stuborness. :D
Is my gap of .020 on the points good? I don't have a manual yet.



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Janicholson

05-02-2008 16:42:50




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 05-01-2008 20:41:30  
.020 is correct. I am in Rochester NY at a seminar, so I am away from the forum a bit. Sitting looking at sunset and lake Ontario from the 17th floor of a Hyatt hotel. JimN



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Bringselpup

05-01-2008 20:20:17




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to glennster, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  

Janicholson said: (quoted from post at 22:03:20 05/01/08) Are you going to share? success is great. JimN


Oh I wouldn't keep this one a secret for anything. It's a classic never assume troubleshooting lesson if there ever was one.
After reinstalling the distributor and again seeing the spark when I let go of the key I knew I was being told something but what it was I could not be sure. I spent a fair amount of time verifying the wiring without coming up with anything new. I hit the net and searched on my symptom and came up with some auto boards with posts that were the same thing. Spark when they stopped cranking. There were some plausible suggestions regarding the starter solenoid and the fact that the act of starting was drawing down the voltage to a degree that the coil could not muster up enough oomph to fire a spark.
That made me realize I had pretty much cleaned every terminal but the ones on the ignition switch. OK so maybe I have a bad connection there and I go out and pull the switch to clean all those terminals.

And that's when I see it plain as day. Never assume that the last person who owned your tractor knew what they were doing when they messed around with it.
The hot wire to the coil from the ignition switch was wired to the accessory terminal of the switch. So when I turned the key on it would indeed send the 6V to the coil. But when I checked the switch with the multimeter turning the key all the way over to run the starter causes the switch to cut off the 6V to the acc terminal while cranking. No 6V to the coil while trying to start means I don't have any spark.
All I had to do was move the wire from the ACC terminal to the IGN terminal on the ignition switch and my spark plug clamped to ground fires every time the rotor comes around. :D

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Janicholson

05-01-2008 20:27:21




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 05-01-2008 20:20:17  
That would sure do it, Going beyond the obvious is profoundly the mark of intellect. JimN



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Bringselpup

05-01-2008 17:20:58




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  
Hah hah! I know what it was and it is a humdinger! I have spark when cranking :D



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Janicholson

05-01-2008 19:03:20




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 05-01-2008 17:20:58  
Are you going to share? success is great. JimN



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Bringselpup

05-01-2008 15:00:02




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  
Ok I took out the distibutor. There is no way I can contort myself around the loader frame to work on it. I took the side terminal connection down completely. Put new points and condensor in. Gapped at .020 because that's what seems to be the general gap for so many tractors. The gap that was present on the old points was beyond anything I could measure with my feelers. I verified no short on the distributor with a multimeter. I spun the distributor and watched it break the circuit when the points opened.
I still only get a spark from the coil when I release the key from cranking the engine.

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Bringselpup

04-30-2008 18:48:46




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  
Ok thanks I will look at that connection closely tomorrow. There is clearly something up with the distributor. I can get fire from the coil itself, but not to the plugs when the cap goes back on.



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janicholson

04-30-2008 18:25:42




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 Re: Trying to get a 330U running in reply to Bringselpup, 04-30-2008 18:00:18  
Bringselpup. The loader does present issues. THere is no two ways around it (so to speak).
The symptoms you dessribe are exactly that issue.
If you take off the nut holding the wire to the distributor terminal, turn on the key, and tap that wire against a ground, the coil will flash high voltage every time the contact is made and broken. Thhat is what is happening with the key, you are breaking the coil circuit.
The reason it does not spark to a plug wire, only the coil wire, is that the rotor must be pointing to the correct plug terminal to have that happen, and it isn't.
Do this: with all wires attached correctly, open the cap, and take the rotor out.
Look in the distributor, and find the points. with the ign. off, use a small screw driver to gently pry open the points (away from the cam) and insert a flat plastic knife blade between the points. This holds them open, and should allow the key off test you performed earlier to stop working. If the key off test still produces spark on the coil wire, the insulator is not put in correctly.
From inside to outside it is a stack of parts as follows.
Nut
lock washer
flat washer
point spring and (possibly) flat copper conductor.
flat washer
Inside insulator
distributor wall
outside insulator
flat washer
lock washer
nut
flat washer
terminal to coil pos
flat washer
lock washer
nut
Some of these parts might be missing, but if the tiny bolt, or the conductors touch the wall, it will not run. The plastic insulator must be kind of a bushing in the hole in the distributor.
Good luck with the loader in the road, JimN

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