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F12 timing

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Brian

08-25-2000 06:03:10




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OK, I am at the point that I am ready to try and get her to fire up. I have copies of the manuals, etc. When it says how to set the mag timing it tell to insert a nail into one of the oil cup to release the coupling. The problem is that I don't see where to do this but, I have a small rectangular cap that when I pull it up it seems to release the coupling so now what? I seem to have it correctly but she seems to be firing way after T.D.C. any help is as always appreciated. Brian

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BLAKE

08-26-2000 06:29:48




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
My thanks to all, also. Especially Brian for letting me ride his coattail. I feel ready to start starting the F-20. Something I have been looking forward to with a great deal of aprehension.



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THANKS ALL !!!

08-25-2000 22:52:10




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
Thank you for the info, going to re-try her today(sat)..... .



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Ed

08-25-2000 20:54:23




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
Back to Blake. Yes this also works on F-20. I have had difficulty finding DC marks for the rust. Used a pencil with steel wool twisted around it to rub away rust. For this reason the horizontal positioning of hand crank pin in crankshaft reduces the amount of polishing to find DC mark.
After you think its timed properly leave plugs out and position advance to start and turn through slowly (with dist. cap off you can see rotor advancing to no. 1) until inpulse trips. DC should be in position. Never Never place thumb around crank handle and push down. Read that owners manual and be careful out there.

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RB

08-25-2000 17:50:52




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
OK,let me see if I can help.To start with,make sure the no. 1 piston is all the way up.Do as mentioned before and then look on the underside of the clutch housing on the clutch pedal side and you will find a hole that you should be able to see a timing mark and on the housing itself there will be another mark.(That may or not be easy to see for whatever reason,mine was barely visible)I think there are accually two holes.If you cant find the mark on the housing its the hole that is futher up.Then you want to fine tune that to make sure its on that mark.Then set the mag to no. 1 with the points cover(spark advance)all the way up then just slighlty down.The mag should slip right onto the coupler.If not,then the coupler with the two bolts is out.The way I had to do mine when it was like that is I took out the bolts,again with the mareks on the flywheel lined upI took off the mag cap and spun it BACKWARDS until I had passed no 1 going backwards and then turned it foward until it stopped.(The impulse caught)I used one hand to hold the rotor and the other to put the bolts in.(which itself was a small task to find the right bolt holes)Once I had it right,it took three crsanks to start it up.Like mentioned,go over the manual several times and you will almost always find something you missed or you fiqure out what something is that they call one thing and you call another.Thats what my problem was with the manual.Hope it helps and have fun and be careful.I nearly broke my hand just a few hours ago starting my 14 because i forgot to set the spark lever.

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BLAKE

08-25-2000 16:56:28




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
I read Brian's question. I am at the same point on my 1936 F-20. I liked Ed's answer to Brian. My question to Ed, "Will your same answer work on my F-20?" Thanks for any help.



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RB Hmmmm

08-25-2000 17:52:20




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 Re: Re: F12 timing in reply to BLAKE, 08-25-2000 16:56:28  
DOnt know about the hole for the timing marks or if the flywheel even has them,but the basic technique is the same.



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Ed

08-25-2000 15:43:48




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
Hello Brian here is my two cents worth.
If you have an F4 Mag. which came on F12 and other IH tractors it's all basically the same. Find your flywheel timing mark which is marked DC. I think this is more acurate than piston positioning. With a hand start tractor I want to be as close as possible. I can't stand pain. F4 mags do have different inpulse coupling trip mechanisms. You deactivate inpulse for ease of timing, the inpulse is not retarding spark as mags without manual advance sys. do. I remove 2,3,4 plugs leaving no. 1 to feel compresion, then remove no. 1 and continue until hand crank pin in crankshaft is horizontal. This should put DC on flywheel in view. Then Adjust mag timing to fire DC with advance lever up and full retard but not grounded. This gives you TC firing position and I have never had a kick back. (with advance lever in starting position.) Read your manuals until it is completely clear. Only pull up to start. Good Luck

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MikeH-Tx

08-25-2000 06:38:39




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 Re: F12 timing in reply to Brian, 08-25-2000 06:03:10  
I read all that too, about stopping the "pawl" with a nail. I took my mag apart to see how that was supposed to work, and there was no pawl in there. Must be more than one variety of mag, I suppose. I just set mine with the impulse connected. Might not be right (and I welcome alternate opinions), but it seemed to work fine.

The way I timed mine was to first crank the engine slowly until piston #1 (near radiator) is at tdc. I judged this by removing spark plug #1 and holding a finger over the hole. While cranking, feel when the compression starts (yes, you can crank with one hand while the other covers the hole, but it is easier with two people). Then, insert something into the hole so that you can feel when the piston reaches all the way to the top. Do not insert anything that might get lost in there. I used my little finger, after making sure I could get it out again.

When set at exactly tdc, mount the magneto after setting the "distributor" part of the mag so that sparkplug #1 wire is getting spark. The connector to the drive from the engine forces this adjustment in increments that are large. Only one will even be close.

Fine adjustment, if needed (in addition to the spark advance control rod), can be made by altering the placement of the bolts in the round metal spacer that connects between the magneto and the drive from the engine. The holes for the bolts are not symmetric and allow for adjustment.

On mine, I didn't need to do this.

Good luck.

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