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1951 M Leaking Oil Around Rear Axle Carriers

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Brent

10-31-2000 19:32:29




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I have a 1951 M Farmall that is leaking oil (very little) around where rear axle carrier meets the main rear frame (both left and right). Is there a simple fix to make it stop? I am not seeing an oil seal for the axle shaft in the IT manual. Is there a gasket where the axle carrier meets the main frame? If I do tear into it what should I look for? Thanks!!!




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Denny

11-01-2000 05:56:35




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 Re: 1951 M Leaking Oil Around Rear Axle Carriers in reply to Brent, 10-31-2000 19:32:29  
'51 "M's" still had drum brakes. Dad's had one of the last ones built since new, Early Dec. '51 build date. Can't remenber the exact ser. #. He had the same axle carrier to rearend housing leak on his a yr. ago.



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Farmer Bob

10-31-2000 22:06:28




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 Re: 1951 M Leaking Oil Around Rear Axle Carriers in reply to Brent, 10-31-2000 19:32:29  
Brent, There is a simple fix to your dilema! But getting it done means a whole bunch of work. There IS a gasket between the carrier and the rearend housing and they are still available from Case/IH. I would recommend doing one side at a time. Jack up and support the tractor under the main rear housing. Drain the rearend...be prepared with three 5 gal buckets, it holds 13 gallons. I try to strain the oil through a screen to detect any metal items that may come out with the oil. And, don't be surprised if some water comes out first. It's heavier than oil and will sink to the bottom after periods of non-use. Remove the respective rear wheel and hub off of the axle. Remove the pto assembly (for access to the inside of the rearend. Remove the large capscrew from the inner end of the axle that holds the bull gear on the axle. Remove the bull gear carefully. Its heavy so don't let it drop within the cavity. lean it up against the other bull gear. Remove outer bolts holding the carrier onto the rearend. It is best to use an overhead chainhoist or cherry picker to sling that carrier in as it is very heavy also. Carefully pull the carrier and axle together out of the rearend far enough to get the old gasket off and the new one on over the outer end of the axle. I can't remember if I had to remove the brake housing and bull pinions behind the brakes on mine or not but it's a good idea to check the bull pinion bearings at the same time. Reverse the process to put it back together. You probably have disc brakes on your M and you should be able to do this without removing the transmission cover. However, It would make the job easier if you did, that's a lot of work in itself.
Please if anyone else can add to this or if I forgot something important, please do so.//FB

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john d

11-01-2000 05:28:20




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 Re: Re: 1951 M Leaking Oil Around Rear Axle Carriers in reply to Farmer Bob, 10-31-2000 22:06:28  
Good description!

I'd like to add that you WILL need a second person during re-assembly to manipulate the axle while you trick the bull gear into going back in place. A good supply of patience and profanity may be needed also. A third person is handy for fetching tools and taking the blame when things don't go well.....

Since both axles have to be done, the second side will likely go a lot easier. As Farmer Bob indicates, check those bull pinion bearings behind the brakes while you're at it. You don't have to remove the brakes to do the axle housings, but a quick removal of the brake housings and internal parts will show if those seals are leaking also. If you get into changing those seals and/or bearings in addition to the axle seals, you may need to seriously consider removing the platform and having a better view of what you're doing. That platform is a lot of work to remove because of everything that's hooked to it. It is very heavy.

Lots of these old M tractors have been upgraded with the use of 560 bearings in these areas. Consult with your bearing supplier or CaseIH dealer about this. The heavier bearings will likely outlast the tractor.

Two people can change out the axle seals the way Farmer Bob describes in a little over half a day, even doing it for the first time. If you have disk brakes and end up taking them apart, plan on another 1 or two hours per side for cleaning and adjusting them.

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