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Maintance on ford 3000

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TimMiller

01-13-2008 19:54:14




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I am about to get ready to try starting a ford 3000. The steering box had gone out and now i'm about to install the one i rebuilt. The tractor has been sitting for about 10+ years. I drained the fuel tank to R&R the steering gear box. I'm going to go ahead and change the oil and fuel filters before attempting to start it. I could read the part number off of one of the fuel filters but not the other. Are they both the same? Also what do i need to do as far as replacing the oil in the transmission?

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TimMiller

01-28-2008 00:55:41




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  
I was just informed today that the hydraulics on this tractor are not very good. They like to float up and down based on the engine RPM. I was told the last guy who worked on the tractor said it was the multi function valve under the seat. He said its best to replace it but its about a 1200 dollar price tag. Any ideas? I'm thinking just drain all the hydraulic fluid out, replace the filters and see what happens. If it still doesn't work then think about replacing the valve, or just use implements on this tractor that do not work off of the hydraulics.

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TimMiller

01-26-2008 00:16:48




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  
I'm still looking for info on the filter before i tear into it. I have a ford book on the way, so i can quit trying to figure out this I&T manual. I got the tractor fired up and purring like a kitten. It fired up on the third crank. First time i got smoke, so i figured might as well keep trying, then it fired right up. I didnt even have to purge the air though the injector lines, only thing i purged was the air out of the filters when i replaced them.

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TimMiller

01-22-2008 21:31:41




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  
sending back to the top. Need to know what the story is on changing the hydraulic filter. When i take the seat off, and remove the cover, am i going to see the entire cavity full of hydraulic fluid, or is it going to be a bunch of tubes going everywhere, or will it be one of those types of things where you can just look in and it will be an obvious filter attached to a line?



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BrianR

01-27-2008 16:29:53




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-22-2008 21:31:41  
Tim, I am currently working on my 3000's hydraulic system. Just rebuilt the pump and found out that wasn't the entire problem. I removed the Lift Cover and can tell you that there is an intake hydraulic filter AND an exhaust hydraulic filter. Intake seems to be wire screen while the exhaust is a paper filter. It is easy to remove the exhaust filter (after the Lift Cover), but I could not get the intake filter off on the first try. I will be attempting that AGAIN tomorrow evening to see if that is what is causing my lack of pressure.
The exhaust filter goes 'up' the right side and is attached with a screw. The intake filter is just fitted into a tube, but that tube snakes over the PTO shaft and under some other bits, so it is not easy to service (IMHO).

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TimMiller

01-20-2008 23:55:25




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  
I have started reassembling everything, and will hopefully start cranking on it tomm. Unfortunately it will be raining so i wont get to drive it for probably the next week. But at least it will be put together and running. Is there a hydraulic filter? I would like to replace it before changing the hydraulic fluid.



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sotxbill

01-14-2008 14:44:55




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  
a 3000 should have tractor hydraulic fluid in both tranny and rear end... any modern tractor hytrans will work..

bleed the filters and they are the same.. bleed all the way to the injector pump by opening the bleed valve till the bubbles quit... loosen each injector line where they go into the injector and crank till they start to ooze a tiny bit of fluid.. tighten the lines and crank some more till it starts..

let the start rest after every 2 to 3 minutes of cranking... keep a charger on the battery to keep the juice up in the battery...

spraying a quick sniff of ether into the intake manifold every 30 seconds will help spin it faster but only a quick sniff or half second shot every 30 seconds.. no more.

keep hands aways from loose injectors while cranking as you can INJECT DIESEL FUEL INTO YOUR FINGERS if try to hand tighten the fittings..

the only MEDICAL TREATEMENT for diesel fluid injection is.... to CUT OFF YOUR FINGERS!!!!..

do not burn up your starter or ruin your battery,,, if after 5-6 minutes of total cranking time, you dont see fluid starting to come out of the lines... stop and start over... bleeding everything from scratch... a blockage, or a bad injection pump, bad fuel pump, or some other problem exist... (like the fuel cutoff lever)

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Old Ford Mechanic

01-13-2008 20:51:14




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  
Yes the two fuel filters are the same.Transmisson lube should be 134a hydraulic oil.80 or 90 wt.will be too heavy in the winter.The orignal owners manual called for mc241a which was replaced by the 134a.



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Ultradog MN

01-13-2008 20:32:43




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 Re: Maintance on ford 3000 in reply to TimMiller, 01-13-2008 19:54:14  

I sounds like you have a diesel?
Can't help you there...
Tranny and rear end are seperate.
Tranny uses 80W EP Volume varries a lot between 4, 6, and 8 spd. Simple job to change with a plug on the bottom and a fill cap by the shifter. If it is milky it's a good idea to replace the rubber boots on the shift levers.
Best thing if you haven't already done so is to buy an I&T FO-31 manual. Available from this site, most tractor dealers, Fleet Farms or Tractor Supply stores.
Or go your local bookseller and have them order ISBN 0-87288-095-8

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