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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Let's talk shearbolts

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Steve from New

06-18-2005 04:21:15




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I know this issue comes up in different discussions, so I thought we all could give some input to try to clear up what a shearbolt is. New Holland service reps years ago taught us that a shearbolt was basicly a grade 5 bolt, but with 2 very important differences. 1- The shank of a shearbolt is longer therefore the amount of threads is shorter than a standard grade 5 bolt. This is so you shear the bolt on the shank and not out on the threads. 2- The tensil strength rating of a grade 5 bolt may be (example only) 10,000 pounds all the way up to 15,000 pounds. Shearbolts of the same size are SUPPOSED to be 12,000 to 13,000 pounds. Therefore, every bolt is SUPPOSED to be almost identical. Not too hard and none too soft. Please note that I said SUPPOSED. If any of you fellows have more to add, please do so. I'd like to learn all I can. Steve

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paul

06-19-2005 14:40:49




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
When the shear holes get worn, a locking nut sure helps. The bolt will want to wobble loose & shear off rapidly. Kinda hard to 'fix' some of those oblong edges, and good locking nut (lock washer don't cut it) will make it tolerable again...

I got some shear bolts for the NH baler that has that name you can't say here - V a l u something - and they are good. When I go to _my_ NH dealer, they rummage around in back & bring any old bag of bolts to you, only 1/3 the time it says NH on the bag. When I wanted shear bolts for the snow blower (different brand) _then_ they brought a bag of NH mower bolts.... Kinda don't visit so often or feel so loyal when that happens....

--->Paul

--->Paul

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Chick

06-23-2005 19:28:21




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to paul, 06-19-2005 14:40:49  
When I worked for Massey Ferguson, inthe late '70s, all our specs just said Grade 5 bolts, with the threads not at the point of shear. I never recall seeing anything about shear strength mentioned. Today, just about everywhere you go, they have Grade 2 bolts, but not Grade 5. Grade 2 bolts are just about good for nothing, and certainly not a shear bolt! I had to try to use some one time, in a NH 69 baler, due to not having any Grade 5. HA! The baler made it about 20 feet. I had to shut down and drive the 10 miles to get some grade 5 bolts.

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Leroy

06-19-2005 06:39:23




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
What will also cause shear bolt breakage is if the flywheel gets a little loose and has sideways play on the mounting shaft that bakes the shear bolt try to do what the fasterener for the flywheel is supposed to do. We used to run a New Holland 66 baler (over 20 years) later a IHC 46 because of kicker after heat stroke, and most of the time we used just a grade 2 bolt with no problems caused by the softer bolt, the only time one would shear is if something got out of time and caused it, not by load, and there were 3/16" stove bolt shear bolts on that baler as well as the 3/8" flywheel bolt. Whensold that 66 the engine had been rebored once and needed it again after having put thru that much hay and straw, 10,000 plus bale a year but it was the heat stroke that caused us to get rid of it and a word of warning to all out there that are still stalking bales by hand, it COULD BE YOU next with that heat stroke so watch the tempature and take plenty of water based liquid. 3 of us got overcome that summer from the heat so watch out for it.

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RickB

06-18-2005 09:36:17




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
My comment is that usually the easiest way to guarantee using the correct hardness and construction of shearbolt is to use the OEM bolt. If you can correctly spec out a generic bolt to do the job, fine. In the previous thread the first thought I had was "is he using the correct shearbolt?". In any application, if you are using a bunch of shearbolts, there is probably an underlying reason that can be addressed. Shearbolts should not be a significant piece of anyone's operating budget.

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Hayfarmer

06-18-2005 08:47:50




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
Shear bolts are cleap compared to gear boxes or other baler parts. Only thing I might add is that often you can put a shear bolt in from either side of the flywheel or other shear point. It needs to be put in so the shear point on the bolt is on the hub, not on the threads.



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Hayfarmer

06-18-2005 08:47:44




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
Shear bolts are cleap compared to gear boxes or other baler parts. Only thing I might add is that often you can put a shear bolt in from either side of the flywheel or other shear point. It needs to be put in so the shear point on the bolt is on the hub, not on the threads.



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Joel Harman

06-18-2005 06:19:41




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
Thank you for the education. I buy longer bolts from auto parts store. My 272 has a motor.



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Joe(TX)

06-18-2005 05:47:30




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
I use grade 5 bolts in my NH baler. Steve is correct about the location of the threads. I buy a little longer bolt so the threads are not in the shear plane. Like was stated in another reply, the holes need to be in good shape to get good results. I don't remember if the NH has a bushing in the hole or not. We replaced the bushings on a MF 126 we had and it helped when we started going through a lot of shear bolts.

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Coloken

06-18-2005 05:14:51




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
I found that when i needed a shear bolr for New Holland baler , I went to New Holland. Nothing else was satisfactory. New farmers, take note: After many sheared bolts the "holes" in the shaft-hub, wharever you call it, gets rounder out and tapered. When they do, there is no way a bolt will last very long. And you need to replace the parts.



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buickanddeere

06-18-2005 19:09:56




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 Coloken has the answer..........Re: Let's talk she in reply to Coloken, 06-18-2005 05:14:51  
As previously stated by Coloken. Once those bolt holes get wallowed out. A perfectly good shear pin will fatigue fail even when operated below it's rated shear pressure. Running the shear bolt finger tight may get you by for a while instead of torquing it down. How many lb ft are you presently cranking that shear pin down to?



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Jimmy King

06-18-2005 14:26:51




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Coloken, 06-18-2005 05:14:51  
Coloken, this is also true when buying guards and sections.



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Jimmy King

06-18-2005 14:25:26




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Coloken, 06-18-2005 05:14:51  
Coloken, this is also true when buying guards and sections.



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MarkB_MI

06-18-2005 04:56:49




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-18-2005 04:21:15  
I don't have anything to add, but it sounds like you know what you're talking about.

I've always used Grade 5 bolts for my shear pins and I've never had a problem; the Grade 5 bolts always fail before anything else does. My experience is that Grade 3 bolts are way too soft and will fail in normal use. It seems like most of the folks here would disagree with me.



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Ken Macfarlane

06-23-2005 09:38:55




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 Re: Let's talk shearbolts in reply to MarkB_MI, 06-18-2005 04:56:49  
Our JD and the neighbours MF224 baler both use grade 8 shear bolts I believe. Their MF wouldn't bale a thing last year until I looked in the manual and realized they had the wrong bolts. It has ruined one of the holes from smearing the heads and made it a bugger to get the sheared bolt out as they deformed in the hole.



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