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M farmall boring

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Mfarmallpuller

05-13-2003 20:15:36




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I have a 1942 M farmall with the original block, If I pull the sleeves and just run pistons in the block should I bore the cylinder wall til it is even with the counterbore in top of the cyliner where the sleeve was once held or should I find some kind of ring to fit into this couterbore groove. Or what should I do , it needs an overhaul and I am pulling a lot anyway and the extra cubes would help, exactly what should I do to run without sleeves? This question has been brought up a bit but I have never seen an answer for what to do exactly about the groove.

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bigmotors

05-15-2003 00:02:26




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 Re: M farmall boring in reply to Mfarmallpuller, 05-13-2003 20:15:36  
You can bore out your block to 4.31 or 4.32 bore/should be fine. Big block Mopar or Chev. works good. If you had a later block, you can bore out to 4.42 bore/ Big Block Ford .060 over work well.
Good Luck!



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farmallflogger

05-14-2003 19:41:51




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 Re: M farmall boring in reply to Mfarmallpuller, 05-13-2003 20:15:36  
The top of the sleeve supports the fire ring of the head gasket. If you run it without sleeves you'll need a custom head gasket. Lubbock Gasket can make one if you send them a pattern.



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Pete1468

05-15-2003 15:02:16




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 Re: Re: M farmall boring in reply to farmallflogger, 05-14-2003 19:41:51  
I ran a .030 over 454 chevy piston in an M block for 3 years with a stock head gasket and no filler in the sleeve ring. I did make sure that my block was straight and my head also. It had 450 ci and 7-3/4 stroke. Never had any head gasket problems.



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Mfarmallpuller

05-15-2003 19:27:26




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 Re: Re: Re: M farmall boring in reply to Pete1468, 05-15-2003 15:02:16  
what did you do about the wrist pin in the 454 piston it is much smaller than the m 1.312, I think 454 is .9 something



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Pete1468

05-16-2003 05:42:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: M farmall boring in reply to Mfarmallpuller, 05-15-2003 19:27:26  
I had a custom set of rods that matched the piston. The motor looked bone stock from the outside.



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Mfarmallpuller

05-16-2003 10:18:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M farmall boring in reply to Pete1468, 05-16-2003 05:42:47  
Wouldn't it have been cheaper to find pistons that would have fit the connecting rod you already had. If you can bore it to 4 3/8 I know the perfect piston the wrist pin is the exact size of the H rod.



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Pete1468

05-16-2003 10:31:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M farmall boring in reply to Mfarmallpuller , 05-16-2003 10:18:49  
Yeah, that would have worked good but I need some cam clearance room and longer rods than an H rod so I had a set made when I had the crankshaft made. Used a small block chevy rod bearing so everything worked alot easier.



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DANNY HOGGE

05-16-2003 12:47:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M farmall boring in reply to Pete1468, 05-16-2003 10:31:23  
IF I MAY ASK. WHERE DID YOU GET THE CRANK AND RODS MADE AND WHICH CHEVY PARTS DID YOU USE . PLS ADVISE. TX, DR SR



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Pete1468

05-14-2003 15:36:51




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 Re: M farmall boring in reply to Mfarmallpuller, 05-13-2003 20:15:36  
Pull the sleeves out and have a machine shop measure it according to the pistons you want to run. Usually a good honing will do just fine. You don't need to do anything to the ring on the top of the block.



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