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Carb Tuning

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Rich

06-30-2003 08:57:12




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We are pulling an Oliver 77, with a reground cam, M&W sleeve kit, stock stroke and a slightly larger than stock Zenith carb. With the tractor on the DYNO, I can screw the high speed needle all the way out with little to no effect on the engine HP. However, when the tractor is operated at high idle or a low load it is running too rich and fouls the plugs. What suggestions do you have to eliminate the fouling problem?

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Goldsburg

06-30-2003 16:48:21




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 Re: Carb Tuning in reply to Rich, 06-30-2003 08:57:12  
Rich -

The group may be able to help, but may need more detailed info. When you say that you are running high idle, does that mean no load? If so, how high is high idle?

It sounds as though you may have two separate problems:

1. Backing the load screw out on the dyno, with no gain in power suggests either you have enough fuel (and you have reached a saturation level of fuel, which would be evident by lots of smoke) OR you are still not getting enough fuel (hence no change in the dyno reading AND no smoke).

2. The other problem of fouling plugs would be traced back to (assuming that your ignition is strong) either an overly rich idle (visible smoke at idle) or the air bleeds in your carb which provide the transition from idle circuit to main circuit are plugged with dirt, causing excessive vacuum on the idle circuit during part throttle operation.

If the idle mixture does not appear to be too rich, than you will probable need to soak the carb in the proper cleaning solution to loosen the dirt, or send it to someone to have it professionally cleaned and rebuilt...

Regards,

Goldsburg

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Rich

07-01-2003 04:38:54




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 Re: Re: Carb Tuning in reply to Goldsburg, 06-30-2003 16:48:21  
1) When backing the load screw out when on the dyno, the exhaust does not go black, I assume that the problem is lack of fuel not over fuel.
2) When operating at high idle (1200 to 1900 RPM) and no load the fuel is rich this causes black smoke and missing, that will go away when the engine is put under load.
3) The idle screw is functioning and I can adjust the fuel at idle, bu the engine does not like to run at idle (600 RPM) perhaps due to the cam?

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FB

06-30-2003 16:52:30




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 Re: Re: Carb Tuning in reply to Goldsburg, 06-30-2003 16:48:21  
I'll say it for everybody...DARN HE'S SMART



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Mark

07-01-2003 06:11:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Carb Tuning in reply to FB , 06-30-2003 16:52:30  
Start by adjusting the low idle screw.Run this screw in until the engine starts to run rough.Now back this screw out slowly and count the turns of the screw.You will hear the engine smooth out,but keep going until the engine starts to run rough again,then stop.This will probably take about 3 turns.Now turn the screw back in 1/2 way,or1 1/2 turns.Your idle screw is now set.For the hi speed screw use the same steps only have the engine running at wide open throttle,not at idle speed.after the carb is adjusted loosen the distributor clamp bolts,with engine running wide open,and turn the dist.and listen to the engine,If the engine slows or starts to labor stop and turn the other way,until you get the most rpm's and the engine runs free without laboring.This will give you the most advance on the ignition and the fuel needed.Done with that,idle engine down for a moment then open the throttle quickly and listen to the engine.If it rev's quickand smooth you are done,if it stumbles idle back down and open low idle screw a small amount,about 1/8 turn,and jerk throttle open again.If it gets better keep going until smooth and no stumble,if it gets worse go the other way.If you have any questions send me an e-mail.

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