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M Farmall timing

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Woody

07-07-2003 21:15:36




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Just wondered what some of you guys were running for timing on your M-450s? Got a pretty spunky old M running stock classes at stock rpms. Been running dead on TDC at idle. Any gains to be had by advancing the timing? DON'T have access to a dyno, but very interested in what some of you guys might have learned on one. Thanks!




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ChadS

07-08-2003 12:26:25




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 Re: M Farmall timing in reply to Woody, 07-07-2003 21:15:36  
May I ask you a few questions about your 39 M? What is the psi in the cyl? Any carb modifications? Are you allowed to run over stock rpms? Do you pull in classes that require you to pull in first gear? What weight classes do you pull?



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Wide Front SM Puller

07-08-2003 07:25:44




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 Re: M Farmall timing in reply to Woody, 07-07-2003 21:15:36  
My 53 Super M is advanced 28 degrees.



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chads

07-08-2003 07:19:38




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 Re: M Farmall timing in reply to Woody, 07-07-2003 21:15:36  
on my Hs, I tune them with a dyno, takes the guess work out of it. It can be done by ear, or a light. I can tune it by ear and be real close to the dyno. What I do is this, BY EAR,, I open up the throttle all the way. What I listen for is the tone of the engine change. When it sounds like it is laboring a bit, I back it off a little, it will speed up a little, and I tighten the dist. As for an exact degree of timing I Could put a light on my tractor later and tell you what the figure is. May not be the same as your tractor, but it may be a starting point. More later.

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Woody

07-08-2003 08:52:49




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 Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to chads, 07-08-2003 07:19:38  
Chad are you advancing the timing until the engine labors and backing off, or retarding until it labors and backing off? Sounds simple enough to work. I may try it and check it before and after with a light to see how much it changes. And WFSM I guess your referring to total advance at WOT right?

Thank you guys!



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ChadS

07-08-2003 11:18:36




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 Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to Woody, 07-08-2003 08:52:49  
I think it is advance then retard. Make sure your carb is right! If you can back out the main adjustment screw on the carb and not make it smoke a little you are not getting enough fuel.I can tell you how to hop up a Farmall carb if you like. Usually, there is 5-9hp increase just by tuning the carb correctly. I have a procedure that works every time when it comes to tuning carbs. I am not bragging guys! I just want help anyone that I can, if I can. If you all are interested in hearing what I have come up with, let me know here a YT and we all will discuss it.

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Big Red

07-11-2003 15:05:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to ChadS, 07-08-2003 11:18:36  
TO chad S. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW YOUR HOW YOU GET MORE POWER BY ADJUSTING CARB. I have a H AND 300 I.H. PLEASE SEND ON MY E MAIL, THANKS IN ADVANCE.



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Woody

07-08-2003 14:02:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to ChadS, 07-08-2003 11:18:36  
I'd sure like to hear what you do to an M carb. Don't think mine is getting enough fuel.



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ChadS

07-08-2003 15:16:40




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to Woody, 07-08-2003 14:02:39  
Alright, I will tell you. I am going to base this upon a tractor that is simular to yours that I built not to long ago. To give you a little history, the tractor was a 47 M with a 4.1/8 bore pistons High compression M%Ws. Stock stroke. I know there may be alot of comments, some good, some bad,some helpful, some not. When I started this build up, the tractor was only 55 hp. I ended up with 75 when I was done. I milled the head 125, to build a little compression. I got about 195-200 psi from the head, and I also installed a 25 thousandths copper head gasket. I belive that a stock head gasket thickness is over .070 thick. without tunning the carb, it came up to about 65. Now I was ready to build a carb for it. Lets start with the tools you need. An excellent investment, a full set of "numbered drill bits" #1-100. The bits are as small as a needle, up to 5/16. Any good hardware store should have these bits.. Get a quality rebuild kit. one that has all the replacement parts. I have a good connection with a resonable price for this kit, (around 30 dollars) So, lets dig in to the carb, you do not haveto remove the throttle body from the manifold, if you choose not to. most of the modifications are done to the bowl, and the metering stem, and venturi. With the bowl removed, remove the main jet adjustment screw and brass fitting. remove the metering stem.(brass stem located in the center on the bowl. SH-450 should have a brass piece use a flat screw driver and a 3/8 socket/ratchet to remove stem. Now, with these parts removed, you are ready for the drill bits. Start by finding the jet size withthe small drill bits. Once you have found the jet size, remember the starting size. I usually, start by increasing the jet size by 5 sizes (5 drill bits larger than the stock jet size bit) I would recommend since you do not have a dyno, you should start at 3 bits instead of 5. Take it slow. drill the main jet out. then on the metering stem, you will see 3 sets of holes down the side of the stem. only enlarge the 2 bottom holes by 3 drill bits larger that stock. Ok the stem is done. Make sure you clean the bowl from the shavings from the drilling. I would recommend finding a superM or a 400 venturi, but no larger than a 450. I have the IH part # for the venturi, will post it later. Reinstall the stem, and the main adjustment screw. replace gasket and veturi in the bowl, install bowl on throttle body. Ok, set the adjustment screw at about a turn out. Start engine. let it warm up. Open up throttle all the way. now, back out the adjustment screw to see if it will smoke. (ritchening the fuel) If it acts like you could flood the engine with the adjustment screw you did it right. if not, and you are able to back the screw all the way out with the engine changing tone much you may need to increase the main jet size a little more. Ok, lets say you got it right, you back out the screw, she will load up(Rich fuel condition) turn screw in until the engine runs smooth, be careful not to lean it out too much! Any way, I also suggest getting rid of the stock governor spring and replacing it. I offer a performance spring that works really well in any tractor we put it in. The reason I recommend this, it will improve throttle/governor responce without having to rework the governor. I hope I helped a little more. any questions?, comments, leave a post and let's discuss it!! ChadS

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WHAT?

07-23-2003 11:52:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to ChadS, 07-08-2003 15:16:40  
You just wrote the biggest amount of BS I have read. It sound like you are 15 years old and you are trying to impress someone.



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ChadS

07-25-2003 12:15:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to WHAT?, 07-23-2003 11:52:17  
Hey UB puller! found ya again! the code tells me who you are, what are you doing, pretending to be somone else?



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Hey Dumb A$$

08-05-2003 14:41:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to ChadS, 07-25-2003 12:15:20  
More BS from ChadS. When you learn how to built a real pulling tractor, then maybe I would listen to you. The H is only in your dreams. NO 130 hp. No wins. No one has ever seen it. WAKE UP YOU F#CKING FOOL>



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Hey Pr!ck!!!!

08-06-2003 18:29:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timi in reply to Hey Dumb A$$, 08-05-2003 14:41:51  
Youve seen it, and your a nobody right? Ha HA HA



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ChadS

07-25-2003 12:12:24




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to WHAT?, 07-23-2003 11:52:17  
What part of this did you not understand? I can do it, anyone who has worked with engines can do it. What would you do?



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Woody

07-09-2003 08:00:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to ChadS, 07-08-2003 15:16:40  
Awhile back I opened up the main jet to .080 and put in a larger venturi. Still can't make it run rich. Haven't done anything to the metering stem. Could that alone keep it from running rich? I'm running the Thompson Rock-it governor set-up.



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ChadS

07-09-2003 08:11:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to Woody, 07-09-2003 08:00:48  
Yes, the stem could be preventing the proper fuel flow. Drill ot the stem like I told you and try that. I have heard of that set up for the governors,works well! Here is another tip, Look at the spark plugs, they should be a brown in color, no redidue on the electrode, if the plug is brown, and clean, that shows a clean burn in the cyl. What kind of gas do you use?



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clif bice

08-03-2003 06:18:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timing in reply to ChadS, 07-09-2003 08:11:29  
What kind of gouverors are available for the m,s?
Also where can you get them? Thanks



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ChadS

08-05-2003 14:09:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall timi in reply to clif bice, 08-03-2003 06:18:30  
I build the governor myself. The best item to modify is the spring. I have a few "high perfomance" springs left over if you are interested. 15.00 ea. 2800rpm max, more info later if you like. Chads



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MORE SH!T FROM CHAD

08-05-2003 14:43:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farmall in reply to ChadS, 08-05-2003 14:09:25  
Take your sh!t someplace else.



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More Sh!t from Nick The P

08-06-2003 18:32:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: M Farm in reply to MORE SH!T FROM CHAD, 08-05-2003 14:43:07  
Kinda catchy, aint it A$$hole!!



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