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Building big buda

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shutt 50

08-29-2001 10:58:25




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Rebuilding 273 buda, I have the 262 crank and cam already. How big can I go on bore without sleeving and what should I expect for h.p? Thanks




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JD Puller

08-31-2001 08:40:27




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 Re: building big buda in reply to shutt 50, 08-29-2001 10:58:25  
I'm mostly loyal to John Deeres, but I remember my first tractor pull I participated in. I was "allowed" to pull a Cockshutt 40. It was the only tractor available on the farm I was working on, so I reluctantly entered it. I remember some of the other pullers laughing at it: it had bad paint, no name on the side. I don't think many people even heard of those tractors. I entered it in 6000 lb and ended up 3rd without any work done to it (other than the hitch). After that pull, it was the preferred tractor of the bunch. We won a lot of money with that tractor, and I have fond memories of it. Some day, I'd like get another one of my own, either a 40 or 50. Could you tell me, what are the similarities between Cockshutts and Olivers? Just some thoughts...

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agco puller

08-30-2001 10:51:36




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 Re: building big buda in reply to shutt 50, 08-29-2001 10:58:25  
I don't think you can? I have been told that the Buda 6B273 is the same as a 6B230 without sleeves. You currently have a 3-3/4 bore X 4-1/8 stroke. If go with the A-C design(D-19 engine) they used a wet sleeve with a 3-5/8 bore X 4-3/8 stroke, so you will gain a little (290 cubes) with your stock bore. These engines are first of the high/speed low torque variety, later we seen Farmall do this with the 460/560's. This being said lets not make it something it not, rather utiliize what you got. Most Buda's were factory balanced so I'm told they are super stong on the bottom end(Allis wanted them for their Diesel engines and you notice all buda's were designed for that. Every Allis diesel installed was built at the Buda facility in Harvey, Illinois with the exceptiion of the 170/175 that used a 3-cylinder Perkins)Getting back to your project use hot rod tricks, lightweight high compression pistons get her up to 10:1 or better get your heads ported and polished grab the Gleaner E intake and exhaust manifold recurve the distributor and install electonic ignition and wham the dyno will read about 80 plus at stock(10%)over RPM's. Go 30% over or more they take it and the needle goes way over 100HP! I pull against these guys with a MM U and they kill me when they cheat that governor(p.s. bypass it) Also Cockshutt was clever
to bless you with a LOW (1.65 mph crawler gear) major torque multiplier and the more weight you hang the better they pull 5,500 all the way to 8,500. Get big tires and go get them big cube boys. The one I pull against uses 18.4X38 and still spins out in 5,500 and 6,500. Amazing!

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agco puller

08-31-2001 05:50:00




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 Re: Re: building big buda in reply to agco puller, 08-30-2001 10:51:36  
It's the C, CII, and very early F Gleaners not the E Gleaner as I mentioned above that have the goods. A-C rated them at 93 horsepower but I could not find a RPM that was achieved for the G262 engine. These were replaced by the 292 gas Chevy at 101hp and even later the 350 Chevy at 120. My point is that with proper engine building and stock bore you will get big numbers from your Buda. NHRA guys always say ring seal, ring seal, ring seal that's basically all their allowed to do in stock to make big HP.

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Justin

08-30-2001 12:39:50




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 Re: Re: building big buda in reply to agco puller, 08-30-2001 10:51:36  
I have heard of the 273 blocks being bored over .100 without sleeving. With sleeves I have heard of up to a 4" bore. I've never seen either in person though. With just the D-19 crank, cam, and a little bit of an overbore you will see 80+ horse at factory RPMs plus 10 or 20%. Use the manifold from the D-19 motor if you have it.

Justin



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