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JD G

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B. Crocker

09-02-2001 18:47:41




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I have a '49 JD G that I pull with. This is my second year competing. I pull against Farmall M's, Oliver 88, Minneapolis in the 55 and 65 pound class. Last year I was quite competative, finishing 2nd overall in the 6500 class. This year I have fallen behind. I think that I am lacking in horse power. I have dinometered my tractor twice and I come up with 42 horse power. The motor has been rebuilt, bored 125 over, Clevite alluminum pistons, rebuilt big nut carb, new valves and a stock head. I checked my compression and I am at approx. 165psi on both cylinders and I took the mag off and I am running on a distributor. We are not allowed to run on an electronic ignition or exceed rpm's by 10%. I am allowed to go 55 HP in my division. I would appreciate any advice on the best way to increase my HP to the 55 level.

Thank you very much.

BC

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Dale W.

09-10-2001 15:54:11




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
I also had my air cleaner fitted with the Baldwin paper element by Renaissance Tractor in Chehalis Washington. I am very happy with the results. I would never turn the intake elbow over and suck all that dirt into my engine. Good luck with your G. There is nothing in the world like pulling a John Deere "G".



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pete

09-04-2001 10:01:18




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
make sure and listen to burns! he really know how to make those JD's lay down ground pounding horsepower!! putt putt bang bang



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burns

09-04-2001 03:46:04




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
BC before you spend a bunch of money there is some tweaking you can do to maybe pick up some lost HP. Call Matt at Motec Engineering and ask him about recabrating your distributor. Deere set most distributors to full advance around 600 rpms. Matt can set your distributor to retard the timing from a set peak rpm (full advance). This may not show a hp gain at peak rpm but it will help you in the mid range. Something else to try is to get your G on the dyno and wind her down to the desired load (540) and rotate the distributor ever so slowely back and forth to find that sweet spot. Your pto rpm with increase a little at this sweat spot. Once there tighten the dyno down again to 540 and try it again. If you don't have access to the dyno and you have a timing light, you can set your timing between 20-25 degrees. You'll need to determine what your tractor likes. Also, at your next pull unhook the oilbath air cleaner to see if it makes any difference. I had Renassaince tractor gut my canister and install a Baldwin paper air filament. Email me if you have any other questions.

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B Crocker

09-04-2001 18:21:53




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 Re: Re: JD G in reply to burns, 09-04-2001 03:46:04  
burns thankyou for the info could you please give me a phone number for motec engineering I dont have your Email. thanks again



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Slo - with phone #

09-04-2001 18:42:15




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 Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to B Crocker, 09-04-2001 18:21:53  
Motec's phone # is 765 963 6628



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JNolan

09-03-2001 08:44:57




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
What you have done should already put you at or over the 55 to 60 hp limit. A stock G with 65 to 75 lbs compression will make 42 hp. Look at fuel and timing. Air cleaner is a good idea also.



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Gman

09-03-2001 01:57:55




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
Mr. Crocker locate you a F-486 flat head and a cold manifold,that should get you up to 55 hp or better,enlarge the valves and by all means put a 3in. exhaust form manifold,and 4" the rest of the way.Don't forget the air cleaner,these old "G"s like plenty of air.Put some Lucus gear lube in transmission,(just for pullin) mix with 50/50 hydraulic oil. later garland



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Jack

09-02-2001 22:15:37




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
What did the Clevite pistons set you back if you don't mind tellin?I was going to build mine this winter and was comparing M&W pistons to Clevite.I run a little short on hp in the 7000 class with my 52 G but in 6500 it does ok with the cast.90 over stock pistons in it.



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B Crocker

09-03-2001 17:31:26




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 Re: Re: JD G in reply to Jack, 09-02-2001 22:15:37  
I would have to look up the bill but off the top of my head it seem to me the set was around 450 .



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DP

09-02-2001 21:29:45




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 Re: JD G in reply to B. Crocker, 09-02-2001 18:47:41  
You didn't say, but you need a gas manifold to get the most of that engine. Also you shoule have a F900 camshaft in it. Thats the same one the late G's and 70's have in them. Polishing the inside surfaces of the head and manifold won't hurt either. Set up with waht you have it should be in the right HP range. Good luck, Don



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B Crocker

09-03-2001 17:21:17




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 Re: Re: JD G in reply to DP, 09-02-2001 21:29:45  
Thank you for your information. I appreciate it very much. I am considering putting on an after market intake from Gerry's Welding and I am wondering if planing my head rather than going to the expense of a flat head makes sense. Also I've been playing a bit with my timing. Does anyone have any advise on that. I am going to try some high octane fuel this coming weekend to see if that helps. I have not touched the governors, they could probably use a rebuild. I was reading about a gentleman who used JD B weights in the govenor. Anyone have any thoughts on that? I am going to enlarge my exhaust as suggested to see how that works. That seems like an inexpensive route to go.

Thanks for your replys.

BC

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JDGnut

09-04-2001 12:52:52




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 Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to B Crocker, 09-03-2001 17:21:17  
I use the head that Gman was talking about on my G, but I think that it might get you over the 55HP, but if you can find one for a good price it would be worth getting other wise I would mill the stock head.. (If you are over a little on HP, you might have to cut back on the RPM's, but I think you would just creap in at 55hp with the flathead if you only have 42hp now, I have never had my G on the dyno.) I also use a Jerry's manifold, and I think will help a little... On the exhaust.. go to an muffler shop and have them make you a pipe, have them make it out of Aluminized pipe.. They will have the 2 bolt flange, and an exhaust bisket to fit instead of the reversed flared pipe.. Using a 3 in like this will take a little work on the manifold end, but it should be not problem... Good luck..

I forgot to add.. if you install the flat head you will HAVE to go to a racing fuel.. On the fuel, most say that you just need a enough octane to keep if from Knocking... I used to run the set-up you have, and I ran AV gas in it.. (you have to add some Marvel Mistery Oil in the fuel) I didn't really see any gain.. but it sure sells good.. haha.. U'll just have to try it and see what works best for you..
JDGnut

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J.Nolan

09-04-2001 19:59:30




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to JDGnut, 09-04-2001 12:52:52  
You guys kill me when you have never been on a dyno. How can you give anyone advice on a G motor and you don,t have a clue what it will put out for power? My 39 G that Jeff pulls runs 75hp without a stroker or any exotic parts. High pistons,old m&w,s and a flat head. Just a flat head on stock pistons will get you 45 to 50. Just the pistons will get 56 on a stock head and block. Put em together and hold on to your head gasket. You must run high octane fuel and retorque the head until it seals. A power block with short pistons and a flat head will put out 72 to 75 hp. I pulled one for 20 years until I went to a 1in stroke with M&w pistons and old style long block, flat head and 65 hp but a lot more lug with the stroke. Next year I,m going to use a longer rod and expect 85 to 90 easily.ON THE DYNO. My tractor has been dynoed every year and everytime something is changed.

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JDGnut

09-05-2001 10:15:21




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to J.Nolan, 09-04-2001 19:59:30  
You are kind of right on the advise without having running my tractor on a dyno.. Not that I don't want to, just that I have removed the pto from my tractor. I'm just trying to throw out some ideas. I was also just trying to gauge it off the HP that he was putting out.. 42Hp with the M&W's... I guess with some more tuning, and some little other things, he should easily be able to reach his goal of 55Hp. If not, mill some off the head. I also did not want him to pass up a good deal on a flathead, as some of the aftermarket parts could cost him more than the flathead.. (As U know he would have more fun with the flathead.) but it most likely put him over the HP limit for his class. Not trying to throw anyone for a loop...
JDGnut

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J.Nolan

09-05-2001 14:03:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to JDGnut, 09-05-2001 10:15:21  
I would be looking for the reason he,s not putting out the ponies with the changes he,s made rather than changing more parts and not gaining anything. We change our rear covers to dyno or comply with diff. rules. As far as milling a stock late model G head-not early flat head- I have one with 375 thous. milled off and no problems. Sort of a half way head between stock new and old. Jeff is more up on all these parts and switching diff blocks heads pistons etc than I am. If that old G isn,t getting enough gas or air all the parts in the world won,t make a diff.

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kcoston

09-06-2001 09:06:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to J.Nolan, 09-05-2001 14:03:01  
I am building a G also. I am boring block to 6 3/8, installing short hi compression pistons, and long rods. I have a late model head and a F486 head. I am having bigger valves installed and flowing the head,carb and manifold(JD Gas). My question is, will the F486 head increase the performance alot more over the late model? Also, will the area above the valves have to be reinforced? Shooting for 9:1 compression and maybe using the Mag. Thanks for any help.

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burns

09-06-2001 16:48:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: JD G in reply to kcoston, 09-06-2001 09:06:58  
As far as the need to reinforce the flat head, you should be OK with 9:1. I am running a little more compression but I decided to play it safe and had Alan Schooler post the head (4 places). I don't have the cfm data to support this claim but apparently some pullers like the flat head because of the larger area behind the valves. With the cyclone head, the head has the raised Y cast into the bottom of the passage. Because of this some builders feel that by shaving the cyclone head down you can achieve a better air flow. Your choice. Email me if you would be interested in parting with the flat head.

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