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Jd g pulling

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doug vose

10-09-2001 19:17:06




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I am thinking of pulling my g in the Alexander Steam Show in alexander, ny next year, it would be my first pull and i would like to know if any of you guys could give me some pointers. what gear(s) and throttle location would be nice too. i am keeping the g in its original antique condition, and i dont want to make any changes to it.




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G Taylor

10-10-2001 11:27:25




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 Re: jd g pulling in reply to doug vose, 10-09-2001 19:17:06  
1st gear only as it's fast at 2-1/2 mph. If the track is hard gripping, sled grabbing clay the 5500 to 6500lbs class at most.



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Jack

10-10-2001 08:20:22




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 Re: jd g pulling in reply to doug vose, 10-09-2001 19:17:06  
If you think that your pistons are stock all fuel than run 87 octane pump gas.High octane fuel will hurt a low compression rather than help it.Get you some autolite 3116's and gap them on .30-.34 thousanths and install them.Find a big hill and go up it in 6th and let her pull down(may have to use brakes a little)and see how it lugs and adjust the carb if needed.What size rubber do you have on the rear now?When I used my oilbath I drained the oil before I pulled it but Burns has what you need and still appear stock.Good luck.

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burns

10-10-2001 06:17:32




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 Re: jd g pulling in reply to doug vose, 10-09-2001 19:17:06  
I would say that low gear would be your best choice for gears combined with 10-20% over on RPM. If you are interested in changing your oil bath canister to the paper filament, I have one already done for sale. It maintains the factory looking system but allows the tractor to breath much better. Drop me an email if you are interested



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Dennis Sellers

10-10-2001 21:56:38




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 Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-10-2001 06:17:32  
How much are you asking for the canister using the paper filament



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burns

10-11-2001 03:19:46




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 Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to Dennis Sellers, 10-10-2001 21:56:38  
$100 I sent you an email



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kcoston

10-11-2001 06:01:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-11-2001 03:19:46  
Burns, can you describe how the dry filter element conversion was done? I would like to try to do mine myself.



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Gary

10-11-2001 04:35:28




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-11-2001 03:19:46  
Don't sell it to him Burns,he's already killing us
with that G of his! Grins!



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burns

10-11-2001 12:31:49




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to Gary, 10-11-2001 04:35:28  
Well Gary if you buy it then he can't have it!! Bigger Grin!! Of course, I might have to charge you a little more ;^)



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Gary

10-12-2001 04:27:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-11-2001 12:31:49  
Thanks,Buddy!



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Ron

10-10-2001 16:48:35




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 Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-10-2001 06:17:32  
May I go askew and ask about a similar question for my all-fuel "60"..... ?? Is .125 too far to over-bore?? (Gas pistons). Would an "A" power block be a better choice?? I will be using the "60" for field work and don't want any cooling problems.... I have new 15.5x 38 rears on it now... Thanks.. Ron.



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WTW

10-11-2001 08:42:10




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 Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to Ron, 10-10-2001 16:48:35  
Ron, Tuning will help as mentioned below but if you are wanting actual (Power Gain) Don't let anybody blow smoke up your pipe! Power increases do not just come from air filters and hotter sparkplugs and ignitions. As the old saying goes: "There is No Replacement for Displacement" If you are still wanting to farm with the tractor and not stroke the engine the Power Block is the way to go. I will warn you that it will burn just as much or more fuel as a "G" will if you want total advantage of the cubic inc increase. I guess altered cams are alright, as I run my tractors against many of them all season long and my opinion on altered two cylinder cams is: I haven't seen one yet that will outperform what I am running and wouldn't spend the money on any I have seen. There is better places to get more bang for the buck. If you are interested in a 6-3 Power Block for your 60 let me know as I do know where there is one. Good Luck, Dave W.

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Ron

10-13-2001 10:54:13




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to WTW, 10-11-2001 08:42:10  
We have a 1952 "B" w/ High altitude head and it was bored .180 over size in 1960--- It has every bit as much power at the PTO as the 1954 "60" all-fuel I have. I just figure that gas Pistons, with an .125 over-bore will make the "60" a pretty good " work horse...don't you think so..?? Where do I find "LP" pistons..?? John Deere does not stock them, anymore.. Thanks Everyone....!! Ron

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Ron

10-13-2001 10:39:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to WTW, 10-11-2001 08:42:10  
What is a "6-3 Power block"...??

Is this a 6" Bore, w/ what compression ratio??

I hear that they use "O" rings that can be a problem....??

Thanks !! How much does a GOOD Power Block cost for a "60"..? Thanks.. Ron.



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burns

10-12-2001 11:30:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to WTW, 10-11-2001 08:42:10  
Dave I am not so sure that I completely agree with you on some of your comments. For example, my G dynoed last fall at 40hp. Over the winter, I added a ported flat head with stock valves(replaced the shaved cyclone ported head), an MSD box, higher lift cam with some corrected timing, and changed how the air enters the carb. My bore/pistons/distributor/stroke/carb remained untouched for the most part. I had the G on the same dyno about a month 1/2 ago and it was pushing 63hp. I do agree 100% about the displacement but it isn't the only way to go.

I guess some of my thinking was on the avaliability of power blocks here in W. PA. I have seen prices from $800 to $1200 for the later powerblock with and without pistons/rings. Plus, my money tree died a while back so I am a little frugal. Unless a person has the money to do an extensive rebuild of everything, I try to look for the best bang for the buck.

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Jack

10-12-2001 14:25:17




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-12-2001 11:30:31  
Mr Vose stated in his question that he wanted to keep it in Original Stock condition.He said nothing about tearing the engine down and spending big bucks on it.I know that a spark plug change won't give a G 10 more horse and a different breather setup won't either but a fouling Champion about half track is not going to do any good either.If tuned properly it will do all it can do and some G's I have seen are impressive just stock.Good luck Doug and happy pullin.

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JDGnut

10-12-2001 09:05:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to WTW, 10-11-2001 08:42:10  
U said it Dave.. "No Replacement for Displacement".. one of my favorite lines... next is the "Cubic Dollar" theory.. lol.. If you are wanting more power.. and still want to farm with it .. like Dave said... go for the powerblock.. If you want some cheap HP.. you can gain some by increasing the compression, but forget about wanting to farm with it, the cost fuel will kill you, if you get high enough to change to a high octane fuel. (not pump gas) As Usual, it just depends on how much you want to spend... Good luck.. (go for the Cubes..}
JDGnut

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burns

10-10-2001 18:28:53




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 Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to Ron, 10-10-2001 16:48:35  
I am going to guess that there is only probably 2-5hp difference between .090-.125. Some folks like to go with .090 so that they have some material left so they can go out to .125. But how likely is that going to happen in your life time. I guess its up to you. I'd go with aluminum pistons either way because the added compression will help a little. As far as the power block, you are going to spend a heafty price for 10 or so hp. MY personal opinion is that unless you are going to stroke the tractor (where you need the larger bore for rod clearance). I would take the $800-$1500 for the cost of a powerblock and buy a good camshaft and make some ignition/fuel/air modifications.

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G Taylor

10-11-2001 02:11:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: jd g pulling in reply to burns, 10-10-2001 18:28:53  
Somehow people have got thinking 125 over is an easy 25% to 50% more power than stock. The stock gas 60 was a 5.5"x6.75" engine of 320.7 cu" & 41.6HP with 6.08 to 1 comp. The allfuel was 33.3HP with 4.61 to 1 comp. LP with 7.3 to 1 comp with 42.2HP even with the lower btu LP. Volumetric efficiency will drop. Plus the thinner metal will pass combustion heat faster into the cooling system instead of being used to build pressure.Here are the % increases in displacement & "power". 45 thou = 1.6%,90 thou= 3.3% & 125 thou= 4.6% or 1.91 extra HP for the gas version. So unless the bore is out of round boring 45,90 or 125 doesn't add power.Powerblocks or sleeving is required to make a difference. Put a Roberts cam in it, 45 thou over LP pistons & LP manifold, gas carb, dry air filter conversion & hang on. Cylinder wall wear occurs when operators run engines too rich and/or don't keep coolant temps above 180F & 195+F is better. Some people have to re-ring or bore every few years & wonder why.

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