Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

Drawbar Length and Balance Theory

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Mopower

05-05-2004 08:55:40




Report to Moderator

I have spoken to several pullers that complain their front end is too heavy even after lightening it up. They could not get the nose up. One was to the point of getting rid of his powerful machine. Why not just lengthen the drawbar? So many people seem to think you have to run it right tight to the rear end. Why is that? My old tired U has smoked some folks just because it gets the nose up with a slightly longer hitch in 5500. Before it was just too heavy up front. The more weight you lift up front, the more traction once the wheels come up eh?

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Shutt30

05-07-2004 19:35:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
Lengthening the draw bar is a good way to get a little better traction in your lightest class on a poor track. you would never want to do this on a tacky track or your nose will be in the stars in no time.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Shutt30

05-07-2004 19:36:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Shutt30, 05-07-2004 19:35:25  
I meen when you dont have weights to move.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
54SMTA

05-07-2004 11:43:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
I cannot change the length of my drawbar. I pull anywhere from 6500-10500 pounds. I make it as high as the legal limit and then adjust front end weight to keep the front wheels from just touching the track. Watching chain length and height on the sled is important as the higher/longer it is attached, the less downpull you will get on your rear end, which means you will need less weight up front.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ChadS

05-06-2004 06:28:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
HMMM, have to put my thinkin cap on here!! In balancing tractors, you have a few things to look at, HP, weight of the tractor, track conditions, tires, air pressure, hitch dimentions, well the list can go on and on, all of the above affects the amount of hook the tires get on the ground. It also depends on what the rules say you can use for weights, our club in div 1 farm class, only stock weights in the stock locations. and then mods use suitcase weights, allowed anywhere on the frame. On the farm stocks. I look at how the sled loads the tractor during the pull. higher hp tractors are a SOB to make hook up right, for years, I blew the tires off my big H, then I learned about air pressure, I had a good set of cuts, but always ran 13-15 psi in the tires, backed them down to 10-12 and she started hooking up, and going down the track! we also have a rule in our club,, the front end cant come off the ground over 20 inches, measured by a chain hanging off the front end, in reality, I dislike this method, one more thing to get DQed on, but look at it this way too,,,,, the balance is more crutial to keep it down under 20 in,, so you learn really quick to balance it out. On hitch specs, I run what the rules allow me, on farm classes, 28 in from center of axle, and 18 high. On the light classes, I run about 100 lb on the front wheels, in first gear, works great, the heavy tractors are loadingthe rear wheels with god awful amounts of weights,,, and over 300 lbs of weight or more, and it comes down to how hard the track is, and how much the sled loads the tractor during the pull. Look at the hook chain for the length, and how far the others are going down the track, and what they are doing, then adjust to be close to the leader in the class, Chad

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jim M

05-05-2004 17:54:18




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
It all depends on the rules, track conditions and sled set up. With a 16" hook height a long chain on the sled and a hard track a long drawbar can move weight that is on the front wheels to the rear wheels where the more weight the more traction. I like to tighten up my front wheel bearings really snug. when the front tires stop rolling and start sliding I've got it right. I can use my wheel brakes to steer if I need to. I've pulled a DC case in 4500# 32" back before

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mark

05-05-2004 15:56:21




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
I am entering my second full year of pulling and I have never heard anyone tell me to lengthen my hitch. All the information I've obtained states you want a short hitch to lift the front of the sled as much as possible. I have never heard of anyone wanting their front-end to come up. When this happens you're screwed. You cannot steer with the front-end off the ground and your weight balance is truly messed up. The best pulls I have ever had were those that I ran out of power and the front-end stayed on the ground. This meant I had the tractor weighted / balanced perfect for that particular track and my tractor had given me all it had.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
true, but

05-05-2004 19:44:15




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mark, 05-05-2004 15:56:21  
Some people never run out of power. If I spin out and my front end didn't come up then I was too heavy on the nose. I HAVE to get my front end in the air just a little (3-4" off the ground is MAX) to get the best pull. You don't want to come up too much because you lose lift on the pan of the sled, same thing with not wanting your tires to squat, you lose lift.
Sliding the drawbar back pinches the tractor harder at the rear wheels because they are the pivot point...it takes more weight on the nose to hold it down with the long drawbar. It's a tried and true trick, lots of people swear by running a long drawbar. I pull one of my tractors in a fairly stock class where we're not allowed any moveable weight...depending on the track conditions I adjust the drawbar length. A slick track where you spin out easy means I slide it back. If it's biting good and need to worry about keeping the front end down, I slide it up as close as I can.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Puller504

05-05-2004 15:06:55




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
Note that there are rules at pulls limiting the minimum length and maximum height of a hitch! No limit on how low and/or far back you can hook. Yes, I said hitch, not drawbar. We build custom hitches for our stock tractors, placing the hitch as high as allowed and as close to the rear axle as allowed. A properly designed and built hitch WILL NOT BEND! The weights on the front end are then used to balance the tractor. Example; last year I was test puller with my AC WD in a stock 4500# class. No weights on the front or rear brackets but 600# of suitcase weights on the center side brackets ahead of the rear wheels. Front end was up off the ground 100 feet into the pull. Dropped to 3rd pull as this is the test pull tractor driver's option. Moved half of the weights to the front weight bracket. BINGO! The front end just tapped the surface of the track at 200 feet. First place in that class for the third year in a row! If the front end comes up, traction goes away, also makes it impossible to steer. I hope this helps explain the theory. Don

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
A.P.

05-05-2004 13:52:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
If the front will not lift in the lightest class then a longer drawbar can help. No guarentee (and far from ideal) but it works on one of my tractors.

A.P.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
buickanddeere

05-05-2004 13:24:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
True many pullers would do better with a litle more leverage lifting the front on loose tracks and with tractors having hevay fronts. As previously mentioned, if the front does rise then the hitch hight drop is far worse. Also a longer drawbar tends to bend/flex down more and loose that all important hitch height.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Well

05-05-2004 11:21:06




Report to Moderator
 Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Mopower, 05-05-2004 08:55:40  
The longer the drawbar the further it is from the pivot (rear axles) and that means when it does come up in the front it takes less to get it low and it also gets lower. If your front is up 6" with a short drawbar and 6" with a long drawbar the height will be lower on the longer drawbar and then you start loosing lift on the sled and spin out. It all comes down to knowing your tractor.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
mad matt

05-05-2004 15:07:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to Well, 05-05-2004 11:21:06  
hey ethan i dont know if you seen my m pull or not but 55 i run 2to 3 hundred pounds, 65 600 to 750 pounds,75 at 800+pounds on the front it hangs the front wheel off the ground 2" to 8" off the ground i run no belly weight every thing asfar back and as far forward as i can go



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
oli man

05-18-2004 19:27:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Drawbar Length and Balance Theory in reply to mad matt, 05-05-2004 15:07:23  
If your rules allow we I have found that if you pitch your drawbar so that the front of it is 4 to 5 inches lower than your hitch point you get a lot more down pressure on the rear. Kind of like using a bar and block to pick something up off the ground. We have found though it takes twice as much weight up front but youget more down pressure on the rear than with a flat drawbar, but you do have to make something other than stock drawbar to get it down.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy