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G Flat Head

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Bryan

04-05-2001 05:10:43




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I Would like to install a flat head on a styled G with the short block, also have .125 oversize aluminium pistons. What kind of changes do i have to do? Do i have to mill some of the top off of the pistons, shorten the pushrods, What about a spacer between the intake and exhaust pipes? I'm i missing anything else? I would like to have more advice on this project! Thanks




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burns

04-05-2001 13:17:55




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 Re: G Flat Head in reply to Bryan, 04-05-2001 05:10:43  
You will first see a significant increase in your cranking pressure. There are a bunch of variables to factor in but normally 190+ with a good seal. Depending on who manufactured your piston {head shape} and depending on the other factors will you determine whether or not you need to cut your pistons down. Yes you will need to either cut your push rods or obtain a set from the early G. There is about an 1 inch difference in head thickness. I asked a few G pullers what they would do and some said turn down one of the ends on a lathe, some would obtain some round stock and weld a rounded end piece to each end, or cut a part out of the middle of a rod and weld it back together. I am not sure of the avaliability or cost for unstyled rods but I'd look around first.

As with all brands, the quality control of each head castings had some variation. Some guys have had no troubles with flat heads holding up and others have blown head gaskets trying to load the tractor onto the truck. There are folks that can reinforce your head with posts in certain areas to prevent leaking or blown head gaskets. Just remember that it is difficult to run excessive compression on a John Deere. Because there is only 2 cylinders, there will be 540 degrees of crankshaft rotation without a power stroke. You will rely on the flywheel and other parts to compress the air/fuel mixture on the #1 cylinder's compression stroke.

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J T

04-05-2001 18:43:41




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 Re: Re: G Flat Head in reply to burns, 04-05-2001 13:17:55  
I have a friend who had a flat head on and .90 over high comp pistons. He had a rough time with head gaskets and pinging the valves.He had milled 250 ths of the pistons still trouble. He changed the head to the cyclonic type and gained power , has no problem with gaskets now. Starts better to I think. He is wanting to replace his new pistons with another set not milled to raise his compresion, I don't know. His brother has one with a mild stroke and the fellows gives him a run everytime. JT

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JDGnut

04-06-2001 10:44:36




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 Re: Re: Re: G Flat Head in reply to J T, 04-05-2001 18:43:41  
This is basically the set-up that I am running on my G now.. .125 over with the Flat head. But my head has had some serious work done to it. And it has been renforced. I do pull with 2 guys that have this same set-up and are running with the factory flat head, and they have not had any problems. (One guy has even cut some off the block too.) But you can NOT run pump gas, it will blow the head gasket and will knock. The pump gas will pre-ignite. You will have to run 108+ octane fuel.

Like Burns said, you will have to shorten the push rods. For the Carb, there is two ways to fix the carb. There is a spacer that you can install between the carb and the intake, but they are hard to find, or you could have one made. Or you can just install the carb to the manifold and adjust the linkage. (This is what I did, because I had an extra linkage.)

Also, if you are still running the factory air filter, the pipes will not line up, you can get a hose to go between them with the offset, but it doesn't look very good. You can cut the elbow down to give you move room to make the bend between the two pipes. If I was going to just use the tractor for pulling I would take the factory air cleaner off and run a dry type filter. (After you by fuel once you will know why it stops being used for anything else.)

On my tractor I was still able to use the same exhaust pipe, but it doesn't fit very well, and I am going to have another one made. Just take you old exhaust pipe to a muffler shop and have them make you one, but have them make the bottom part 1in longer. They will have the bracket that matches up to the manifold. They will just fare out the end of the pipe, and install a 2 1/2in exhaust dounut. This makes a great seal between the manifold and the exhaust pipe.. I think they charge me about $20 for one.. And have them make it out of Alumnized pipe, and it won't rust and can be polished out. Let us know how you turn out.. Good luck..
JDGnut

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