Chads! Update on tuning H with 300U engine

Also, the guy who owns the dyno is the local tuner for us farmall guy"s and pointed out right when she was on the dyno at first that the governor seemed to not be kicking in soon enough. He still thought the same thing when we were all done. He gave me a spring to try and I put it in. All it seemed to do is give me higher RPM. Even with the new spring he thought the governor was still not kicking in soon enough. He seems to think the rpm"s are falling off too quick before the governor does anything. He said that he can set the pto rpm at 650-700 on his Super M which is not revved up very much at all and his governor kicks in right away. Hardly any rpm drop at all when it kicks in. The governor is off of a 300U or the same engine I am using. bearings inside and pins on weights seem quite tight with no slop. The holes in the linkages where the spring goes are not worn. The spring I was given and put in measures 3/4 dia and 2 1/4 long. The wire looks as heavy maybe a litttle heavier as the stock spring I was using. Would you recommend a different size? I also played with shortening and lengthening the rod linkage on the top of the governor under that angled vent cap but all that seemed to happen was it would idle faster and faster as I turned up that block higher on the threaded shaft. Don"t know what else to do. The reason I"m not happy with the output I"m getting is another family member has done the exact same thing as I have done (C175 kit in a C169 block) and he is using the stock head and manifold and is getting 41 HP. I have had my head planed 0.100 and am using an aftermarket manifold as my engine didn"t come with one. I gasket matched the head and manifold. I figured I would get about 44-48 HP if not more with the head planed and some gasket matching. Getting 185-187 compression which I think is pretty good and quite a bit more that stock. That is why I think I should be getting more HP out of her. I know he is using the same carb as the part numbers are the same. I figured and thought that it made sense that with that much more compression and light porting, she would need more fuel and air but the way she is now, the carb has all stock parts in it with the exception of the jet being drilled out 5 sizes bigger that stock. Confused???? Is this the most I can get out of this engine?

Hope you have some ideas. Thanks for all the help you have given me already. I have been listening with both ears and trying everthing you have suggested. Sorry for the long post but I thought that I"d better give you all the info I"m getting to make it clearer to you as to what she"s doing.

Have a great 4th of July and let us know how your pull went.

Cheers!

Sid

My temp guage doesn't give a temp. It is the type that just says COLD, RUNNING???, and HOT. The needle is on the line between COLD and RUNNING??. It seems to take a bit to get there too. Yesterday, took Dad's Super M down to the dyno and she put out 60 HP. Kinda suprised and I checked the compression before and I got 90 PSI on all 4. Thought that was low. While I was there, we were talking again about my governor issues and throwing some idea's around on what I should do, the guy with the dyno pulled out his 300 row crop with TA and put it on the dyno. It put out 40 HP and he says that that it needs a rebuild. Kinda disappointing when I gotta fresh C175 with added compression and it's only putting out a couple more HP that a worn out 300. Difference between night and day on how the governor on that 300 kicked in. Couldn't believe it. Had PTO at about 650 and came on to it with the dyno. Needle hardly dropped and you could really hear the governor kick in. He said that is why he thinks my governor is not kicking in fast enough. His 300 governor worked better that his and Dad's SM. Still wondering if the linkage from the governor to the carb being on an angle is causing any problems. Seems to be free with no binding and the throttle plate is wide open. Have another governor that needs new bearings inside I could try. It is the one that come with the 350U industrial engine (C175). I can also try the one that is on the original H engine that I pulled out to put the C169 with C175 kit in.

When you say to get an older carb, do I just get the throttle body without the idle speed screw in the carb flange and use the existing bowl I have? Also, how loose should the spring be in the governor when the throttle is in the idle position? It's pretty loose right now. I thought that by adjusting the linkage under the angled vent cap would take up some of that slop so the spring tension would come into play sooner but all it did was give me a higher idle RPM. I have all kinds and sizes of springs so should I go with a shorter and larger diam one than the 2 1/4 long and 3/4 diam one I am using now?

Hope I'm not giving you a head ache with all this trouble! LOL! Thanks for the help buddy. I really appreciate it.

Cheers!

Sid

You never did say how your pull went?

Cheers!

Sid