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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

Deere G ..several questions

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robg

09-20-2005 17:50:53




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Gents,
First time poster to the tractor pull board. I have a '49 G with 0.125 over M&W's, .050 shaved styled head, Crum intake and exhaust straight pipes, 55K coil with electronic ignition and very mild porting on the intake side of the gas manifold. Tractor has 105 lbs compression on both sides. It seems to run pretty well but I have no dyno to verify power output.

Also, I am not a serious puller or for that matter much of a puller at all. I just want the tractor to run as well as possible given the hand it has been dealt.

The questions:

1) I am running 22BTC timing. In your opinions, is that about right? I run 87 or 89 octane straight gas.

2) Has anyone retrofitted a K&N filter into the existing air cleaner housing?

3) My exhaust manifold has the web that bisects the flow path in the exhaust stream. What functions does it serve and should I remove it?

4) I don't have a reground cam. I read something about Murphy rocker arms. Is this a good step to improve port flow given the stock cam?

5) Given the above, does it make any sense to go for a Dengler's cold manifold?

6) Given my current situation, about how much power at the PTO should I be running?

Thank you for your time,

Rob

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Phil Munson NY

09-23-2005 07:27:33




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-20-2005 17:50:53  
I am sorry to interject. Here are over two dozen rational, coherant, intelligent posts about pulling and farming tractors obviously from competant, knowlegable people. Thanks muchly, it was most enjoyable, as well as informative.

OK! Maybe I did miss the standard plug for the Magic Miracle Monster governor spring; but it was still very nice. Enjoy the day Gents. best, Phil



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robg

09-23-2005 18:38:13




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to Phil Munson NY, 09-23-2005 07:27:33  
Phil,

"...rational, coherert, intelligent"...that's us.

Thanks for the indulgence and patience!

Regards,
Rob



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G/MAN

09-23-2005 16:13:57




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to Phil Munson NY, 09-23-2005 07:27:33  
That's only because we all agree, lol. But thanks Phil. It looks to me like a flock of like-thinkers here - money and time poured into an old tractor is more effectively spent if the final result can do several things pretty well, instead of building a specialized machine that's only good for one purpose.



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GPULLER

09-22-2005 08:30:10




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-20-2005 17:50:53  
I have a '52 G that has .090 M&W's 135PSI, stock stroke and cam, head has been cut .250 ports cleaned up and port matched to the manifold. Dtlx-71 carb that has been bored out, I'm running the all-fuel manifold. Pertronix electronic ignition and runs 58hp. It will run on pump gas.
I tried the K&N set up and it did nothing for power. I elbowed it down 90 deg off the carb.
I have talked to Murphy's about there roller rockers. He could not give me an answer if they would make more power on a fairly stock G. I didn't want to spend 300 bucks so I got a set of 70 gas rocker arms because they are stamped steel instead of the cast ones on a G. I'm going to make my own high ratio rockers when I get around to it.
I too use mine for pulling but it does see some time hooked to a 3-14 plow. Most days plowings more fun than pulling, depends if you winning or not!

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robg

09-22-2005 19:02:08




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to GPULLER, 09-22-2005 08:30:10  
Gpuller,

Sounds like your baby is a lot like mine except I wasn't quite as bold with the head decking. I have the '51 carb though but is sounds from other posts that the DLTX51 is probably oversize for a gas burning G. I guess I get concerned about instantaneous flow capability as you're at peak intake air mass flow for a pretty small percentage of the firing cycle. One would have thought that the K&N would have given you some benefit especially since such a short flow path was provided.

I gotta think about the Murphy rockers a bit but since this is my only antique tractor, if the boss says there's a couple quid in the checking account, I will be tempted to pull the trigger.

I'm thinking I'm at around 53 hp now, but test results talk and BS walks so I need to get confirmation.

I like to plow too, more so than pulling. Probably because with 13.6.38's, I spin out in second gear on the local track (6500#).

Thanks,
Rob

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G/MAN

09-22-2005 10:53:40




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to GPULLER, 09-22-2005 08:30:10  
Plowing lasts a lot longer, that's for sure. I've often wondered about the K&Ns on the elbows, too. I know they're supposed to flow well, but common sense tells me that there's nowhere near enough volume in that elbow and filter to satisfy a "G" taking two big breaths 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation apart. I think a factory oil-bath supplies as much air. Also, if the tractor is good and hot, that K&N is right there in the path of the hot air being blown back from the radiator, which isn't helping power any either.

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robg

09-22-2005 19:15:30




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to G/MAN, 09-22-2005 10:53:40  
Gman,

Yeah, I like to plow, always have. Adequate instantaneous intake air mass flow versus average is a whole 'nother issue. You have only two easy options, either make sure you've got an accumulator in place that can supply the cylinders with enough air for two complete air charges or have a really free-flowing (oversized) dry filter. My current idea is to investigate removing the the innards of the wet air cleaner and put a K&N inside the existing wet air filter space. Some trimming of the air pipe coming down the inside of the housing is anticipated. I will have to be careful to ensure that sufficient flow area exists everywhere but right now, I think it's doable. I hope to be able to put the bottom cover/cup back on so it is a clean installation.

Am I nuts or does this have a chance?

Thanks,
Rob

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G/MAN

09-22-2005 19:34:41




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-22-2005 19:15:30  
It should work. A lot of guys convert oil-baths to dry filters, and I'm sure there are many different ways of doing it. I'm considering doing the same on my "60", but instead I'm going to gut the oil-bath housing, and then install a good-sized K&N on the intake tube, which comes over the top of the radiator on that tractor. With some sealant around the top of the cup, it should be air-tight, and I'll have the added benefit of having the air "pre-filtered" by the grille screens, which should help a bunch out in the field.

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GPULLER

09-23-2005 06:43:30




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to G/MAN, 09-22-2005 19:34:41  
I converted the oil bath on my 720D to a dry filter. It took a little cutting and welding but it seems to work fine and looks completely stock. I used a dry filter that would be used on a 3020. The filter is working backwards, meaning the dirty air is drawn inside the filtered air exits the outside. Dont know if it made any more power on my 720 because alot of things changed at the same time, pumps, injectors, cam etc...

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G/MAN

09-23-2005 16:08:52




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to GPULLER, 09-23-2005 06:43:30  
That makes sense. I think some of the "professional" outfits use some sort of adapter when converting them, so you're still drawing outside to inside. But your way should still work fine.



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robg

09-22-2005 19:44:12




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to G/MAN, 09-22-2005 19:34:41  
Gman,

I think we are talking about the same basic approach on the retrofit of a wet air cleaner to a K&N. Sure sounds like it.

Rob



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buickanddeere

09-21-2005 17:08:23




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-20-2005 17:50:53  
A Robert Carb cam and high compression pistons to get about 175 psi is about all that's left before getting $$$. 55 to 60HP is quit possible. Deere made about that HP with a stock 720/730 and less displacement. Plenty stout for the 6500 and 8000lb class.



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hHOWARD

09-21-2005 16:51:19




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-20-2005 17:50:53  
your build was close to what I was thinking for my 49 G .The crum intake and exhauest from Mr. crum if he is from north East PA with pipes what did that set you back price wize and do you think you got any gains from it besides looks.

Howard



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robg

09-21-2005 18:45:12




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to hHOWARD , 09-21-2005 16:51:19  
Howard,

It's been awhile since I bought them. Beautiful pieces of work. No shortcuts. If you look down the intake pipe, on the inertial separator cap, it is mirror polished and actually enscribed! I'm thinking $300 for the set but again, it's been several years. I threw a lot at the old girl at the time...new high comps and bearings, new intake and exh.valves, completely reworked the head, polished and modestly ported it and the manifold and went through the carb. So, yeah, it sure did wake up but exactly how much each component gave me is unfortunately anyone's guess.

If $$ isn't too much of an object, I'd speak w/ Mr. Crum and make a purchase. The unmuffled sound of the tractor alone is worth the cash.

Good luck,
Rob

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G/MAN

09-22-2005 07:42:01




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-21-2005 18:45:12  
You're talking my language again, lol. That's exactly the plan for my "G", except I've got "A" rods with bearing inserts, and I'm going to have the crankshaft offset-ground for a slight stroke/displacement increase. If the crankshaft were flawless, I probably wouldn't consider it, but my crankshaft has seen better days in the spline area and so forth. The splines aren't shot, but one is about half gone, the end of the cankshaft has been beat on, and it's got the drilled and tapped hole for the old "bolt and washer" flywheel "retainer". I'm not exactly sure what I'll gain for stroke to the hundredth of an inch, but I think overall displacement will be in the 445 cid range with .125" over pistons.

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G/MAN

09-21-2005 17:00:22




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to hHOWARD , 09-21-2005 16:51:19  
I believe Steve Crum's pipes are probably the best thing out there, from what I've read about them. First, they're polished stainless steel, not chrome, so they'll never rust out, while even the best double-wall chrome ones probably will eventually. Second, from what I understand, they're not "bent" to make the curves. It seems to me that he cuts them and welds them through the bends, and then files/polishes the welds off so you can't tell. From the pictures I've seen, they're a heck of a piece of work. It's nice to see someone take that much time and put that much effort into something. And I'm sure they're priced accordingly, but you get what you pay for.

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G/MAN

09-21-2005 07:33:24




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-20-2005 17:50:53  
Any sort of "cold" manifold is going to increase performance, as the incoming fuel/air charge will be cooler and more dense. I don't know what the ratio of the Murphy's rockers is compared to the stock ratio, but if the ratio is increased, the valves will be held open farther and longer, resulting in improved breathing. I've always heard that a solid "G" with hi-comps and a cold manifold should be good for 50 horsepower.

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robg

09-21-2005 15:29:37




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to G/MAN, 09-21-2005 07:33:24  
Gman,
Thanks for the info. My manifold is the F1074 which I guess is colder than distillate but how much...?

Tx,
Rob



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G/MAN

09-21-2005 16:53:14




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-21-2005 15:29:37  
The F1074R manifold is Deere's own "cold" manifold for the "G". All "G"s were all-fuel tractors from the factory, but later Deere introduced kits to convert them to efficiently burn gasoline, consisting of that manifold and high-compression pistons. That manifold should keep the intake charge substantially cooler than the factory all-fuel piece. There are numerous other aftermarket manifolds, as well.

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Drew

09-21-2005 10:50:15




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to G/MAN, 09-21-2005 07:33:24  
The Murphy's rockers are 2.0 ratio (stock is 1.5). I would put a ballpark guess at about 3-5hp increase.



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robg

09-21-2005 15:22:27




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions, re: Murphy rocker in reply to Drew, 09-21-2005 10:50:15  
3-5 hp increase ain't to be overlooked. Are the rocker arms a direct, "drop-in" replacement? What gap do you set for clearance with them?

Thanks,
Rob



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G/MAN

09-21-2005 17:04:31




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions, re: Murphy rocker in reply to robg, 09-21-2005 15:22:27  
www.murphysmotorservice.com. Yes, they look to be pretty much a bolt-on deal, using the original shaft and adjusting screws. And the price seems pretty reasonable, too. I would stick to a stock lash setting - about .020". I don't think there would be much sense in trying to tighten them up a bunch and risking hanging a valve open when everything is hot. Those two-bangers use some very long valves and pushrods, and I'm sure those pieces grow quite a bit when at full operating temp. For a pure puller, there might be some minimal gain to be had by tightening up the lash, but on a tractor that sees some longer periods of hard work, such as plowing, I'd stay at the stock settings.

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robg

09-21-2005 18:58:09




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions, re: Murphy rocker in reply to G/MAN, 09-21-2005 17:04:31  
GMan,

Thanks for the insights. I agree wholeheartedly with your assessment of Mr. Crum's handiwork, as my reply to hHoward attests to. My G does a little of everything and what I am trying to do is to have a healthy plowing rig that won'tembarrass itself (I personally am pretty welll beyond embarassment)at a tractor pull with its peers. I will stick with the 0.020 lash and not worry about trying to get the last 5% out of the new rockers.

Any thoughts on ignition timing?

Many thanks,
Rob

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G/MAN

09-22-2005 07:35:55




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions, re: Murphy rocker in reply to robg, 09-21-2005 18:58:09  
I'd put it on a dyno and time for maximum power without getting into detonation, with the engine good and warm. I also sort of question just how accurate the factory timing marks really are. I'd consider remarking the flywheel with TDC with the head off and using a dial indicator to find exact TDC of the piston, and then possibly remark the flywheel from there. Those flywheels are so big, that a small error in the marks could equal a big error at the crankshaft. Some sort of dedicated timing pointer would also be a plus. It sounds like you're doing with your "G" exactly what I want to do with my '48 "G" - build a jack of all trades tractor that can do a little of everything. I am more or less in the middle of a bare main-case restoration of mine that's been on hold for quite a while. Originally I planned on going more for the pulling route, now I'm rethinking and leaning more towards plowing and such. I gutted my Power-Trol housing to save weight, but now I'm reconsidering putting it back to original. Hydraulic plows are much handier than rope-trips. I'd be interested in hearing more about your project and swapping ideas. I'm also currently working on a "60" that I want to make fully operational for field use. You can email me at deeremeyer@yahoo.com if you'd like to talk "plowing" tractors.

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robg

09-22-2005 19:40:13




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions, re: Murphy rocker in reply to G/MAN, 09-22-2005 07:35:55  
Gman,

I did what I thought was a pretty decent job of lining TDC up relative to the punch mark. Not perfect, I'm sure. Then I measured the circumference of the flywheel and marked degree points at what I thought might be a decent range of timing values. Right now, I am at 22BTC, probably +/- 1-2 degrees. I use a timimg light for timing. I listen for the tractor to even out in cadence at close to high idle, then retard it about 5 degrees. I figure that once it evens out nicely, I 'm doing nontrivial negative work (too much cylinder pressure BTC). I have convinced myself, completely in the absence of hard evidence, that 5 degrees retard helps keep the real work on the right side of TDC and presumably increases power output. You and the rest of the guys that actually know what you're doing likely see this as amateurish, and it is, but I am using what few tools I have. An hour on a dyno would work wonders!

Mine wasn't a case-up deal by any stretch but it was/is pretty complete insofar as the power unit is concerned. The rest of the tractor is in pretty good shape so I'll probably fix as I go along.

My email is robecca78@yahoo.com. I might be able to be more conversant on the topic of plowing tractors than pullers and I'd like to hear about the 60. We had one once upon a time. Good old tractor. I spent tons of time on 730 diesels as well.

Take care and thanks,
Rob

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G/MAN

09-23-2005 16:12:13




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions, re: Murphy rocker in reply to robg, 09-22-2005 19:40:13  
Thanks Rob, I'll be in touch as soon as I get more than two minutes. I'm a JD tech in east-central Nebraska, and we're hot and heavy in harvest around here. Had three combine service calls today, and didn't even get a break apart from the windshield time between calls. Heading to find some cool refreshments, lol. I'll drop you a line tomorrow, more than likely.



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Jak

09-21-2005 07:28:00




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-20-2005 17:50:53  
My 53 G had.125 over pistons with.250 off the cyclone head,stock cam,100 octane,136 psi compression,Johnson cold manifold,new exaust valves w/springs,and electronic ignition.57-58 pto hp on the dyno at 540 and the hp would go on up if lugged on down(but the right procedure)below 540.I dyno tuned the timing under a load as well as tuned the carb.That was a good farm puller w/16.9 38 Firestone Super All Tractions.It had a real snappy throttle for a two cylinder.Hope this helps.Jack(TN).

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robg

09-21-2005 15:27:26




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to Jak, 09-21-2005 07:28:00  
Jak,

Sounds like a pretty stout tractor. I'm getting the impression that the colder the manifold, the better, to a point, of course.

How about the web on the exhaust side of my F1074 manifold? Should I remove it or does it serve a valuable purpose (better structure or better flow)?

Thanks,
Rob



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G/MAN

09-21-2005 16:57:01




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to robg, 09-21-2005 15:27:26  
I believe I would leave it. I can't say for certain what its purpose is, but Deere obviously put it there for a reason, and probably a good one. At your performance level, I doubt you'd see enough gain by removing it to even register on the dyno. With the installation of the Crum pipes, you've already gained some ground. The most I would do with the "divider" is possibly smooth the edge that the exhaust hits some. I wouldn't knife-edge it or anything, as it will get darn hot on that edge, and my cause backfiring when you stop the engine.

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robg

09-21-2005 19:06:42




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to G/MAN, 09-21-2005 16:57:01  
Gman,

Thanks again. You gotta be careful with hot spots, I agree, so any modification I make will be limited to smoothing the leading edge of the web.


This is way out of my league so I'm just gonna toss it out as an idea but has anyone ever tried to make a precombustion chamber and adapt it to one of Jerry's heads? I would think that the combustion would be vastly improved, specifically as it involves detonation margin. PC's on big, quiescent chambers like a G are really wonderful.

Just a thought.

Regards,
Rob

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Oh and!

09-21-2005 07:29:23




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 Re: Deere G ..several questions in reply to Jak, 09-21-2005 07:28:00  
I had the air inlet turned down with a paper element on it too.



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