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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

560 engine knock?

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Farmall Daddy

01-09-2006 15:36:08




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I have recently rebuilt my 1962 Farmall 560 into a higher horspower farm/pulling motor. I had the motor bored from a 263 out to a 301 cubic inches. All new parts including pistons, rings, pins, keepers, rod/main bearing, cam bearing, new camshaft, and a new oil pump. Had problems throughout the year with the engine not hitting on #5 and #6 the way it should. I pulled the head off and took it to a local head machine shop and come to find out, the previous place I took the head to have it "redone", didn't find that the valve guides and seats were totally shot. To top it off, the second guy I took the head to had to shave .015 off one side, and .002 off the other to make the head parallel and true. After I got the head redone and in operational order, I pulled the pistons out the motor, checked rod bearings and the rings to make sure they were still in good shape, in which they were. I put the pistons back in, although I didn't take #1 piston out because I used that cylinder to check clearances when I went to do the head work. After I assembled the motor, I set the valves at .030 cold, and she fired right up. Purred like a kitten on all six, and when she warmed up, I set the valves at .027 hot. I ran it for around 30 minutes, no problems. I went out the next day, fired her up, and it started to knock. First thought....she was about to throw a rod bearing. Then I thought, I checked the rod bearings, they were in good shape, and I retorqued all of them, including #1 down to specs from the shop manual. I was stumbled by this, and then I though, well...I wonder if it is compression knock from a leaking head gasket. I checked the oil, no water there. Dad came out and took a listen to it, and he said, do the easy stuff first. We adjusted the timing, did nothing. We moved to the valve train, and on #2 cylinder's exhaust valve was a little loose, so I tightened it to .027 hot and it seemed to quite down on the knock, so i though, hmm...lets tighten it down some more, and see what happens. Tightened her down more, the knock was hardly noticable. When I set it back to loose, just testing it by the way, boy did she sound like a diesel 560. I tightened her down till the knock went away and not too much that the motor died out, and took her for a drive. Sounds pretty good even with the timing retarded a little bit since i haven't put her on the dyno yet. My question is, has anybody ever had this problem of knocking like a diesel motor, and it just been a valve problem? I have worked on a lot of motors, and I haven't ever ran into this before. Thanks for any input guys/gals!!

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Mr. 560

01-09-2006 17:35:47




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 Re: 560 engine knock? in reply to Farmall Daddy, 01-09-2006 15:36:08  
Have you looked at the end of the rocker arms where they contact the valve stem ? I have seen where they make an indent in the rocker arm face and when you go to set the valves the feeler gauge is to wide and you cant get a true lash setting. It sounds like this could be the problem becasue you tighted up the lash and it went away.Just a thought.



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ChadS

01-10-2006 07:11:26




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 Re: 560 engine knock? in reply to Mr. 560, 01-09-2006 17:35:47  
My 263 runs the lash a little looser, and it does sound like a knock at low rpms. Like a soft tapping sound. Then it warms up and it bearly is noticable. Just make sure everything is tight, and where it is supposed to be, then when you get about 10 hours on it, have another look. Look for fluctuations in oil pressure, if its possible to have an oil problem, then that would tell you in a hurry. Dont idle it too long if its OK though,,, get it on the dyno and break it in. Keep an eye on the compression readings, that will tell you when the rings are seated in. Sounds like you could have a 90-100hp 560 pretty easy,, Keep the oil changed in that 10 hours of break in time!! The oil temp will be higher during break in due to all the friction new engines have. Oil will break down at an accelerated rate. Chad

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