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In my opinion, the only way to do a true "farm stock" class it to check both tires and dyno, as well as check for stock parts. This can become a huge burden for a club to try to find help to put on a pull when you get into this type of class. You need the tire police, the dyno crew, experts for each brand of tractor to spot non-factory replacement parts - all on top of your regular helpers - sled man, pull back tractor, hooker, unhooker, flagman, roller operator, scraper tractor guy, registration helpers, food helpers, etc.. I wouldn't mind if that's the way a pull is run when I show up at one, but I sure wouldn't want to host one like that - hard enough getting helpers as it is. Another problem in some of the non-antique classes is the repowering of farm tractor with non-stock engines - they're farmed with probably more than many of the "farm stock" tractors, but because they were repowered with another engine they're frowned upon - and can you fit such a thing into a class or tell the guy to keep it at home - even though as I said above he legitimately uses the tractor on his farm 10X more than his competition with "stock" tractors. My opinion is to run just like out antique club does it. Limit tire size and cut for each class, pace some of them, set a drawbar height, and let em pull. We've been running that way for over 5 years now and it has been very successful. Very little bickering - just go and pull and have fun. HP doesn't = winning in pace classes near as much as in non-pace. People know what they're getting into when they show up, and almost everyone goes away happy - very few sour grapes. Just my opinion. Cliff can chime in on how things run at our pull, but I think he'll be mostly positive:)
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