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That's a tough question to answer without more info. The right rod combo depends on your stroke and peak RPM. Also need to know if you are running a deck plate. If you are limited on RPM, like 20% over stock, then you can bend the rules a bit and go with a lower rod to stroke ratio, 1.25 being the lower limit. Any lower than that and you have a time bomb in my opinion. Most automotive big-blocks are in the 1.4 (poor--400 SB Chev) to 1.8 R/S range, while Formula 1 engines (17000 RPM) are above 2.0. The higher the peak RPM is, the higher the ratio should be, with 2.2 the max. For the Oliver 310, the stock ratio was 1.54, which is very poor for an engine that should live to 5000 hours. Combine this with poor rod bolts, and split wrist pin bushings, and you can understand why you see a lot of holes in these blocks. My opinion is to stay with an R/S ratio of at least 1.6 or higher, with 1.75 being able to spin to the moon. A couple common rods that will work in the Oliver with some machining are the Chrysler rod (7.875 long with 2 1/8 crankpin) and the AC D17 (7 3/8 long with 2 crankpin). However, by the time you have either one of these fit to the Oliver crank and block, you will figure out that custom rods will give you better piece of mind for not much more cost. This is a good subject that gets glossed over easily with antique engines of larger displacement.
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