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Div. 3 JD B

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Jerry

03-29-2002 06:22:09




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What will it take to build a JD B to run strong in Div. 3 (3 1/2 mph)? Came across a styled B with a power block - would like to run it as heavy as 4500#...




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Todd

03-29-2002 06:41:31




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 Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Jerry, 03-29-2002 06:22:09  
What year B?



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Jerry

03-29-2002 06:49:00




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 Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Todd, 03-29-2002 06:41:31  
Not sure of the year - yet. May find out today. But it's a 4 speed...



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Jerry

03-29-2002 08:41:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Jerry, 03-29-2002 06:49:00  
What kind of HP do you turn at stock or 10% over RPMs?



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Todd - everyone has the right to do what they like

03-29-2002 08:58:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Jerry, 03-29-2002 08:41:41  
Around 45 horse. I pull in 3000 - 4000 lb. classes in low gear.



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Todd - ignore that previous title

03-29-2002 09:08:03




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Todd - everyone has the right to do what they like, 03-29-2002 08:58:02  



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Todd

03-29-2002 08:10:42




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 Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Jerry, 03-29-2002 06:49:00  
With a 4 spd it would have to be a 1939-1940 model tractor. The 5" power block is a good start. To be somewhat competitive in the class and with WC Allis you will have to
A: stroke the crank at LEAST 1" which will make the stroke 6 1/2 inches. (some go more)
B: port polish the head, install model A valves
C: Gas manifold
D: Use a dltx 71 (late A carb), or DLTX 51 (G carb)
E: Use a 50 or 520 cam
F: Use a distributor from a later model with beefed up ignition or pulling mag. (Dist set up is cheaper)
G: you will have no petcocks, so unless you are willing to tug hard you will need a different flywheel and starter.
The early B in opinion is the hardest 2 cylinder to build, and you will need a lot to make her pull right. Track conditions, tire size, and chain length make differences in how strong the tractor must be. I pull a 1937, the chain length is shorter compared to most clubs, and the tracks down here are mostly red clay. My setup is:
5" power block
6 3/4" stroke
late B head ported, etc., with A valves,
520 cam,
Big nut G carb,
offset rockers,
electronic ignition,
compression pumps about 185 per cylinder
13.6 X 38 tires.
WTW is very knowledgable about B pullers, and I'm sure you will get a reply from him. Good luck.

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Mike F

03-29-2002 12:04:45




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Todd , 03-29-2002 08:10:42  
I think the powerblock is a good start, go with a 7" stroke and get some angle cut pistons, the 520 cam is good, and the offset and valve work sounds right. I would really push the 7" motor. Call keit merfeld in Iowa and he can get you going.



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Jerry

03-29-2002 15:48:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Mike F, 03-29-2002 12:04:45  
Being able to run strong in Div. 3, and being reliable - not having to tear it down every winter w/engine problems - is what I'm looking for. Anyway, guess my billfold needs to be fatter than it is now - go ahead, throw some $$$ figures at me...



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Mike F.

03-29-2002 17:43:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Div. 3 JD B in reply to Jerry, 03-29-2002 15:48:20  
Stroker crank- $1000.00
Head work and heisler manifold- $600.00 to $800.00
Good cam- $150-250
Power block and custom pistons- $1500
Hotter ignition- your choice here,mag, dist, electronic-$300 to $600
Rods for new crank-$180 with bearings
Modified carb- $175-$350
A wide array of tires and rims -$1000.00 Have cam notched for stroker to rotate-$60.00
This would be close to getting you on the track for div 3, not exact numbers, but would be fairly close.

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