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.500 off set for a full one inch stroke 6.25,,, right??? Most part on the rod journals, you get into the oil gallery in the crank. You can get the radius on the crank enlarged, and the rods recut for the bigger radius, be a bit thicker in that area. If they do that, send the rods with the crank and let the shop match them up. You have to cut the hump off the cam side of the rod smooth, so it follows the countour of the rod,,,, Some of the block clearence might be along the oil gallery in the block,,, should have enough meat to grind notches in them, Ive cut rods down enough to clear at 6-1/8th stroke, and not touch the oil galleries,,, but sure enough at 6.25 you will have to do a little. To save some work cutting the webbbing of the block,,, on the rod caps, there are 2 tall ribs the stick out, and those can be shaved down,, and makes extra room VS cutting the block,, closer to the oil pan,,, Countersink the lower rod bolt deepr into the cap, and that helps clear, and help keep from grinding so much on the block,,, So, alot of work can be done to the rods for clearence,,, in a few more spots and keep the block stronger. You will have to cut inbetween the cam lobes, the distance between the lobes must be opened up so the rods can pass thru, and also, possibly some of the diameter of the cam shaft its self in that area. I am aware of another method to get the rods pas the cam, )If the fella Im talking bout sees this, he may post in and tell you how) It does work just fine, but I did not come up with the idea, nor will I take credit for it,,, (JMHO) But either method works fine, one, method takes longer than the other,, On the pistons,,, using stock rods, your looking to get rid of .500 of extra travel,, the piston will now travel a half inch more up and down inthe cyl bore,, so this is where you need to know a few things on compression height, and offset wrist pin bushings. First off, you have to use M, SM, or early 400 rods, that have the big wrist pin casting.. The later 400 C264, and the 450 C281 had a small casted wrist pinned rod, that gives you no option for an offset,,, The reason is, if you find a set of pistons that are very close to the compression height, and has a small pin diamter, you have the option to rasie the piston, or lower the piston on the rod to get the piston setting down in the block without cutting the pistons down. stock compression height is 3.125 on the M-450,,, Simply subtract .500 from 3.125 and thats the compression height you now need, and not be sticking out of the top of the block. In this case is 2.625 with the wrist pin dead center on the stock rod. Here is where offset wrist pins come into play,,, On the M-450 rod,, you can offset the pin from center .180 up, or down, (providing there is enough room for the top of the rod to fit up closer to the underneath side of the piston head) So you can get a piston within .170 too tall, or too short and still make the piston work on the rod without finding the exact compression height piston. If you can find a piston spec book, and look up stock pistons that will work or get you close,,, OR, you call up a piston manufacturer and have the specially made to tailor you needs. There are several places available, and some can be contacted here on this site, or can point you in the right direction. Thats to get you a bore size from 4.310 and on up to 4.375 bore sizes. I can help if it was a stock bore 4-1/8th bore with a stroker up to 6.125 for parts,,, But, thats not what you asked for! LOL! Sure hope this helps,,, its not as bad as it sounds to build a stroker,,,, CHADS
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