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Tractor Pulling Discussion Forum

'36 A stroke

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Herc36A

12-26-2006 11:55:25

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I have a "36 A I"m tinkering with trying to stay in Div 2 or 3, Wandering what would be a good stroke to try and go with. Would a simple offset grind do enough good to make it worth while? I have 90 over alum. pistons I got from Heinrich"s, jerry"s manifold, DLTX 71 Carb. New to engine building so any ideas would be helpful. Also opinions on good shops to do work would be great. Thanks,

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Herc36A

12-27-2006 06:14:27

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Re: '36 A stroke in reply to Herc36A, 12-26-2006 11:55:25

jd b puller and Drew, thank you both for your responses. To go with that much of a stroke am I going to have to remove the back wall of the engine compartment? I was hoping to leave that intact if at all possible. Also do either of you have suggestions on where to get a crank and some rods done? I live in Central Iowa.
Thanks again for your help
Chad

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Drew

12-27-2006 19:02:10

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Re: '36 A stroke in reply to Herc36A, 12-27-2006 06:14:27

With the 9-9.25 stroke, you will have to cutout the back of the crankcase and flatspot the cam. I helped put together a 7.75" stroke engine last fall using the 329 Deere big end and I had grind notches into the back wall, but not quite all the way thru.

With a Murphy's billet rod you will gain enough room, that if I added everything up right, 8.000 should barely clear in the back using the 2.750 crankpin.

But like I said before, horsepower per dollar, you are much better off to put the big shaft in the first time and be done with it. JD B puller laid it out very well.

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Drew

12-26-2006 13:14:07

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Re: '36 A stroke in reply to Herc36A, 12-26-2006 11:55:25

In my opinion, its a waste of time and money to offset grind a crank. Stroke it to 9-9.25" the first time and be done with it. Im guessing your pistons are pretty tall, which forces you to use a short connecting rod. Shorter pistons would allow you to use a longer connecting rod. On the other hand, a shorter connecting rod will help keep the rod out of the cylinder wall at the bottom of the bore. There are good and bad points for both a long connecting rod and a short one.

Without seeing it on a dyno, gut instinct says that manifold may be too big unless you put some cubic inches into it. Especially w/ a JWMS manifold, make sure the intake port in the manifold lines up well with the intake port in the head. I have yet to see one that didnt need some attention in this area.

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G Fever

12-26-2006 17:18:35

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Re: '36 A stroke in reply to Drew, 12-26-2006 13:14:07

Drew,

Please explain to me why an offset grind is a waste of time and money. I was thinking of doing that to an A.

Thanks for your time!

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jd b puller

12-26-2006 21:10:15

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Re: '36 A stroke in reply to G Fever, 12-26-2006 17:18:35

G Fever, I'll speak for Drew on this one. You make the call, you can spend $300-400 to have your crank offset ground and gain 1/2" or so, or you can spend $900-1000 and add 2.5-3.0" to it. You're still going to have to make rods, so that cost is the same. Hopefully you will use some piston better than what's in there, so there's cost. So when it's all said and done, you have $XXX in it or $XXX +$500 to do the crank right.

at 5.5" bore, it's about 50 cubes per inch of stroke, so you are pi$$ing away about 100+ cubes for saving $500. To put it another way, if you offset grind it, there will be JD B's out there with bigger bores, strokes and more RPM's and they weigh a lot less.

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