37 JD A

Also, I personally wouldn't do the 9" crank with 329 rods. Either go 9.25+ with the smaller rods, or 9" with 3" journals. No reason to weaken the journals if you're not going over 9", and trust me, there is ample room at 9" with big journals, and you can still turn it hard too--I've hit 2,000 on a number of occasions, been running the same motor for 9 years now, and thats the setup I'm running.

Also, if you go that route, be sure to drill a hole through the top of the rod and bushing (top meaning as the rod would be sitting inside the motor) and countersink/chamfer it so oil can splash into it to lube your wrist pins, as when you go with the 2pc rods you sacrifice the original through-rod oiling system.

Make note though, that the cam thickness is if you mill it on top and bottom. Do not turn the entire OD of the cam down. It only needs to be taken down on two spots 180 degrees from eachother for each rod. You may also need to do a slight bit of clearancing on the cam lobes, but it is minor, and all depends on what your rods look like, as well as where you have them centered relative to the cylinders.

Drew's billet rods are very well done, and are definitely worth the money, but if you're on a tight budget, unless you're planning an extreme motor, 2pc welded rods should be sufficient. Some guys swear by them, others at them. Personally, I've been running mine for 9 years in the same motor, lots of hooks, run it hard, haven't had any issues at all.

A lot of guys running cut 'n weld rods on a 3" pin use a small block JD big end. If you go this route, you are going to have to grind a lot on the rod, or cut it off the camshaft.