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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Drawbar ball hitch

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CityBoy

06-02-2004 20:08:16




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<> search is down; otherwise, I'd look for the answer.

How can I use a 3-pt drawbar to pull a ball hitch trailer? I figure I can find a ball that will fit thru the holes on the drawbar but the drawbar will surely rotate. Maybe the rotation is not a problem, but I suspect it is. Is there any easy solution?




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Ray,IN

06-05-2004 21:23:01




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 Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy, 06-02-2004 20:08:16  
Like Kevin said, I just used a 12" piece of 2" angle iron. I drilled one hole in each end, one to bolt it to the end hole on the drawbar, and the other to hold a 6"long X 1/2" dia bolt with the head sawed off and a j bent in the end to hook over the bottom link bar. I have towed loaded stock traliers from muddy, snowy, barn lots; my 24' hay trailer picking up bales in the field etc. The main concern though is braking, unless you install an electric brake controller on your tractor you've just placed all your trust in your tractor brakes to stop that 6,000lb load behind you.

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Slowpoke

06-04-2004 01:29:41




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 Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy, 06-02-2004 20:08:16  
You can buy a small device to keep the drawbar from spinning for about $25. Try any tractor dealer or farm supply. I had one in the early '90s for a Ford 9n, but it was stolen. You can make something like it by starting with a 1/4 or 5/16 thick x 2-1/2 wide x 5" long piece of steel. Set the drawbar at the height it will be used for towing. Then about 1/2" from the end of the steel cut an oblong hole that will slip over the drawbar so the piece will lay up against the lower lift arm. Drill two holes at the oposite end to match a 'U' bolt. Put the plate on the drawbar and the 'U' bolt over the lift arm and thru the holes in the plate. Or you can weld two tabs on the end with matching holes on the outer ends to take a pin outside the arm instead of the 'U' bolt. Size the plate to fit your application.

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Russ Smart

06-03-2004 19:02:25




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 Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy, 06-02-2004 20:08:16  
I built a nice hitch that works very well a couple of years ago. It is an A frame that fits the 3 point and has a drawbar on it. Y ou adjust the top link to level it and then it stays pretty good for all heights. I use it all the time for moving trailers around because I don't have to get out of the seat to hook up or unhook, exept to lach the coupler if I am going very far. I could post a pic of it in a couple of weeks.

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CityBoy -- THANKS !!!

06-03-2004 18:56:03




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 Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy, 06-02-2004 20:08:16  
Appreciate all the responses, and glad to see that my thoughts on the issue were in line with the responses. I'll be pulling a small utility trailer with mostly light loads (most under 1,000lbs). I figure I'll cook something up to go between top link and drawbar.

txblu -- no offense taken by anyone referring to me as CityBoy ..... that's what I call myself, and that's what I am during the week. Come weekend though I grab the overalls, gloves and workboots and go to our place in the country where I become CountryBoy and work myself to the nub tending longhorns, building/fixing fence and outbuildings, cutting pastures, and fixing whatever's broke or don't work right. The weekends are the much better part of my life.

.... a lot of fine and knowledgable people on these boards. My MF35 is an invaluable tool; the advice in helping me get more out of it is much appreciated.

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txblu

06-04-2004 05:34:25




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 Re: Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy -- THANKS !!!, 06-03-2004 18:56:03  
10-4. Longhorns? Are a Texas City (er ah Country) boy?

Mark



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N

06-03-2004 03:50:27




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 Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy, 06-02-2004 20:08:16  
I have one on my John Deere drawbar and it is just bolted to the drawbar and I just let it swivel up and down ( not fastened so where drawbar wont turn ) it works fine when you go across a ditch or go up a bank . No problems so far. I prefer it better this way.



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Kevin (FL)

06-02-2004 21:48:46




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 Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to CityBoy, 06-02-2004 20:08:16  
Cityboy--You can either bolt on at least one angle iron (on one side) to one of your stabilizer links or if you don't have those you can fabricate something to go up to your top link connection.

On the top link setup, I've seen folks use 2 pipes welded to a triangular shaped plate and then a small section of 3 x 1/2" flatbar is welded along the plate and it has a hole in it to line up with the top link connection. For the drawbar end they splice in a short length of flatbar and heat/bend as needed to line up with the drawbar surface and then drill holes to match the outer holes (or close to outer-most) on the drawbar.

On the side (stabilizer bar) setup you can trim about 4" off of one flange (say on a 3x2 angle iron) and drill a hole to bolt to your drawbar and then trim the opposite end and heat/bend a section of the remainging flange to bolt through the stabilizer bar. One side is OK for light loads but for heavier trailers you could put one on each side. Sounds pretty complicated without a drawing, but I think you'll see what I mean.

I welded my trailer hitch to my lift boom so I don't have the problem you're asking about--if you have a lift boom you could try that too. Some lift booms may be too shallow an angle to do that--the boom would end up hitting the boat, but mine is near straight up so it doesn't get in the way.

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txblu

06-03-2004 05:38:37




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 Re: Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to Kevin (FL), 06-02-2004 21:48:46  
Kevin's point about the triangle made with 3/4 pipe is a great and cheap idea (if you weld) and also works good if you want to haul round bale hay with a doodle bug. Fixed one like that for a neighbor to do that. The tongue weight on the doodle bug was -g's and the lift arms kept wanting to raise to the top.

(A doodle bug is a 2 wheel cart allowing any reasonably sized 4 or so wheel vehicle to move a 2000 bale of hay about.)

Don't be offended by the slur "City Boy". I know it was in jest. I was one of them once.

Mark

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Brian G. NY

06-03-2004 07:37:14




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 Re: Re: Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to txblu, 06-03-2004 05:38:37  
Drawing heavy loads on the 3-PH is not a good idea but I haul a small trailer and light stuff all the time. I just took a piece of angle iron, bolted it to the drawbar, ran it up the 3-PH arm aways and secured it with a u-bolt. Allowing the ball to turn freely will put undue stress on the coupler, for sure.



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BrokenFences

06-04-2004 19:17:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to Brian G. NY, 06-03-2004 07:37:14  
I had a class 3 hitch laying around, so I cut the ends down to a good width, then welded bar stock up both ends. Bent the barstock together at top, welded a spacer, drilled two holes for the toplink pin. Works well, except... Be careful of downhill with little tongue weight, my (empty) 10000# trailer lifted the 3 pt up and took weight off the back tires. Hard to stop with no weight on the braking tires

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Mark Krzyzanowski - IN.

06-08-2004 23:07:01




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Drawbar ball hitch in reply to BrokenFences, 06-04-2004 19:17:31  
Thanks Brian. I have a little B that I only use for a belly mower around the house. Then I thought about putting a ball on it to tug posts, fencing, diesel, or... out into the fields. Then I looked at the hills, and realized a very light tractor with two hand brakes, one shift, and the tought of running away and breaking the land speed record through a fence or tree sent a chill down my spine. No ball on the B, the pickups will keep hauling out to fields for now. Your words sent another chill down my spine.

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