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1939 9N won't start.

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Terry Don

09-03-2004 20:04:35

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Inherited a 1939 9N that has sat for about 10 years. Replaced a lot of parts. But still can't get it to start. Think maybe my timing is off. What is the point gap? Also not sure if it is a 6 volt or 12 volt. The owner before kind of rigged things up just enough to get it to run.
Appreciate any help. Not a tractor mechanic.TP

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Roland (AL)

09-04-2004 07:27:49

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-03-2004 20:04:35

Terry, on the discussion forum on this site go to the 9n, 2n, 8n board. There is a lot of good informatiom on these Tractors. Do a search there to get any info. you need . These are great tractors to work with and you can get plenty of parts still.

Later Roland (AL)

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Vern-MI

09-04-2004 06:45:35

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-03-2004 20:04:35

Do you have spark? Do you have fuel? (try starting fluid) If you have both of those then do you have compression? If'n it sat that long then the rings and or valves are probably stuck or sticky.

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Terry Don

09-04-2004 07:31:32

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Vern-MI, 09-04-2004 06:45:35

Did have spark till replaced points,condenser, distributor cap, coil, spark plugs, resistor. Do not have compression. How do you get valve and rings un stuck.

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TheRealRon

09-04-2004 09:59:19

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-04-2004 07:31:32

This is exactly the reason I always suggest a compression test as the first course of action.

If by "no compression" you really mean zero on all cylinders, the engine has to come apart, period.

If compression is just low (dry test), pour/squirt a couple of tablespoons (more or less) of engine oil into each cylinder and re-test. If compression comes up a bit, the rings are shot.

If not, pull the valve cover and turn the engine over and you'll likely see the problem right away.

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I Like Case

09-04-2004 01:05:37

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-03-2004 20:04:35

Sounds like you are in a pickle. Where are you located? Maybe someone could stop by and give you a hand. It's always easier to diagnose these things when they are right there in front of you.

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Terry Don

09-04-2004 05:41:31

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to I Like Case, 09-04-2004 01:05:37

Do you know a good Ford Tractor mechanic. I live in the North Central part of Oklahoma. TP

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Pitch

09-03-2004 20:17:17

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-03-2004 20:04:35

A little shy on info. It should be a six volt positive ground. If the battery has 3 caps it's a six the cable going to the starter should be on the negative post. Will it turn over cough or nothing? What have you replaced? Are you getting good fuel flow? Points should be set at .025 Spark plugs should be Champion H 10 or H 12 or Autolite 437's If it is a cobbed up 12v conversion who knows?

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Terry Don

09-04-2004 05:38:35

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Pitch, 09-03-2004 20:17:17

Try to give all the info I can. When I first got tractor it was a negative ground. The whole tractor was grounded. (Just enough to make you junp back if you touched it.) It has an alternator that has a box on the back of it. Two wires, one goes to each post on alternator. One wire runs to junction box. Turns over but won"t cough. Was getting good spark on plugs. But replaced points, condenser,distributor cap,coil and spark plugs. Cleaned out gas tank, put new sediment bulb under tank. Replaced rotar bug. Now almost no spark. Have I lost a ground somewhere?Also put on new resistor from coil to togal switch. Any help or ideas appreciated. Thanks

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greenbeanman in Kansas

09-04-2004 07:50:40

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-04-2004 05:38:35

I'm not sure I understand all that you have posted.

A vehicle or tractor should be insulated by the tires from the earth so there should be no shock when you touch it whether negative or positive ground.

"The whole tractor was grounded. (Just enough to make you junp back if you touched it.)" Were you getting shocked when you touched the tractor? If so, there surely is a pinched wire or bare wire that is at fault for this.

Did you buy a 12 volt coil, or a 6 volt replacement coil? Perhaps you don't need the resistor.

Are you still running the negative terminal of the battery to the block or other casting? Is the positive terminal of the battery run to the starter, then a wire to the ignition switch, which has a wire going to the coil (via resistor) or direct?

Was the old coil grounded to the frame with the holding strap, i.e. was it free of paint under the strap? I don't even know if it should be, but I would make sure the new one and old one were alike in this manner.

You can always do a temporary by-pass of the switch and run a wire direct from the battery to the resistor or coil, then try to start the tractor. This is strictly hot wired and is temporary and briefly only to see if this might make a difference.

I'm just tossing out ideas since I don't know how a Ford is wired, etc. With all you have done/replaced you should have an excellent spark.

I would suggest you work on getting a strong spark back. Can I assume that your battery is still well charged?

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Terry Don

09-04-2004 08:13:44

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to greenbeanman in Kansas, 09-04-2004 07:50:40

In answer to your questions. I am not running the negative terminal off the battery to the block or other castings. Yes, the positive terminal of the battery runs to the starter, then a wire to the ignition switch. Yes the old coil grounded to the frame with the holding strap is free of paint. Yes when you touched the tractor is would shock you when we had battery charge attached to battery. Thanks for your ideas. Anything is a help. TP

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Pitch

09-04-2004 09:01:05

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-04-2004 08:13:44

Something does not sound right here. A '39 should have a square coil on the front of the engine behind the radiator.The coil has a curly pigtail sring which sometimes must be stretched slightly to make contact with the rotor button. The coil sits on top of the ditributer which is mounted with two bolts to the front of the engine.All timing and point adjustment is done with the distributer on a workbench not on the tractor. The wires need to be solid copper core resister wires do not work well with an iffy ignition system. If the tractor has an alternator it has been converted to 12V (I have never heard of a 6v alternator)There are a thousand ways to convert an Nseries to 12v and about 3 of them work. If the distributer is on the side of the engine you will have a normal round can coil. And the engine is not original to the tractor. As for no compression probably stuck valves remove the valve covers bhind the manifold and sqiurt some MMO on them rings are probably frozen also after sitting that long squirt a touch of MMO into each spark plug hole to free them up. (The MMO in the cylinders will complicate your starting problems so just do the valves untill you get the no start figured out.)

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Terry Don

09-04-2004 10:21:51

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Pitch, 09-04-2004 09:01:05

Does an alternator change the electrical system from positive ground to negative ground.

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Pitch

09-04-2004 12:48:49

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Re: 1939 9N won't start. in reply to Terry Don, 09-04-2004 10:21:51

An Alternator must have negative ground. Just having an alternator does not change anything, the batterery connections are what determines the polarity

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