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Hi George, Nope feel free. I would not go less than 30º on the 1/2" x 2" gusset and can end between the two top holes. The plate for the adjustment head as well as the ball/pintel mount was made from 3/4" plate as thats what I had on hand. I would not go less than 5/8" plate tho. Use inside pipe spacers or make the ball/pintel mount first when welding the verticle adjustment plates on as this keeps the distance spaced even as the side plates will draw tight/open when welded. I just bolted the head in place before welding. The drawing shows a space between the ball/pintel mount and the adjustment plate when in reality this is a close fit only allowing for clearance for the welds. You will also want a tight inside fit where the ball/pintel mount plate fits into the back of the adjustment plate. This is for if one of the 5/8" mounting bolts shear the ball/pintel plate would bind inside against the verticel mount plate. I also use 5/8" holes with 5/8" bolts. I didn't want any slop here. The same apply's to the receiver pin, 1" hole and a 1" pin. Use 1/4" x 3/4" flatbar to wrap the end of the receiver tube. This supports the tube end during side stress. You want the draw bar to extend into the receiver atleast 2" past the pin hole. This is for draw bar bind between the top and bottom with-in the receiver tube. Again a tight fit. I have to keep the rust off the draw bar surface so it will slip in easy. This keeps the hiching quite while traveling. I tend to use/abuse my hitching so I don't want any failures. This is also my winch point if needed. My actual hitching extends 18" out from my bumper as I had a automatic boatloader on my pick-up that I had to clear with my 8kGVW travel trailer. My hitching never moves. T_Bone
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