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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

trailer purchase question

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DJL

07-29-2005 19:20:07




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I'm getting close to purchasing a new trailer for behind a 2002 chevy silverado 1500 Z71 truck. Truck has factory 2" receiver hitch and aftermarket air springs. The only tractor I will haul is a 1943 JD B. I think the total weight of tractor is about 4,000 lbs. Looking at a general car hauler, two 3500 lb axles with electric brakes and standard 2" ball hitch. Is this trailer heavy enough? Any thoughts on dove tail and ramps or hydralic tilt bed? Brand suggestions?

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26Red

07-30-2005 11:06:13




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
With that setup you should be fine. I pull Farmall H"s and M"s around with my 1/2 ton and trailer with electric trialer brakes. I would advise getting fold up ramps, instead of the slide in ones. They help keep the back end of the trailer steady while loading. Otherwise you have to add jacks in the rear to stabilize it.



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DJL

07-30-2005 19:04:04




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to 26Red, 07-30-2005 11:06:13  
Thanks for all of the comments/suggestions.
I'm leaning towards purchasing a PJ 5" channel car hauler with 15" tires and a 2' dovetail. It's steel frame and 2" treated wood floor. Two 3500 lb axles and 2" coupler. I noticed the trailer only had brakes on one axle but can install second axle brakes for additional $100. I'll do that.
Any recommendations on electric trailer brake control to install? I see they range in price from about $40-$200. With getting close to the truck and trailer weight limits, I want the best brake system I can get.

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john *.?-!.* cub owner

07-30-2005 19:49:47




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-30-2005 19:04:04  
I've done quite a bit of trialer towing, ususually with a lighter truck than you have. I've tried 3 or 4 different controllers, and recently purchased a Tekonsha Prodigy, which I have fallen in love with. One of the smoothest operating controlles I've ever used, self leveling, and lifetime warranty. It's a sureg controller with proportional braking. alos has a boost button you can engage that leads the brakes more than normal for pulling heavy loads and interstate driving. not cheap though 100 to 120 depending on where you get it.

Whatever you do, DO NOT buy a time based contoller.

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DJL

07-30-2005 20:08:49




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to john *.?-!.* cub owner, 07-30-2005 19:49:47  
John,
Thanks for the feedback. That's exactly the controller I've been researching on-line. It is a little pricey, but I think is worth the money.
DJL



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John *.?-!.* cub owner

07-30-2005 20:38:47




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-30-2005 20:08:49  
Try here
Link

I've seen them a little cheaper on Ebay, but on something like this I prefer a dealer.



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John M

07-30-2005 05:46:42




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
Seems everytime someone brings this subject up,responders try to get the poster to buy a new truck. I just dont understand that. You should be just fine with that truck,trailer, and tractor. Just make sure you have a good brake controller,be careful, and remember when your pulling something,everyone else on the road is an idiot and youll be fine.



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RustyFarmall

07-30-2005 07:01:25




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to John M, 07-30-2005 05:46:42  
John, I am not trying to get anyone to go out and buy a new truck, I was just saying that given the same load and the same circumstances, A 3/4 ton truck and heavier trailer will do the job so much better. I have towed a 7,000# rated trailer with a 4,500# load on it behind a 1/2 ton truck and it got the job done, but my one ton does that job so much better that it is not even funny.



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John M

07-30-2005 19:24:41




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to RustyFarmall, 07-30-2005 07:01:25  
Rusty,I wasnt attacking you or your post by no means.Its just that every time someone asks a question of this type,someone says his truck wont handle the job when clearly the truck is capable of doing the job.The ONLY reason I take any offence to those type of responces is someone on here once told me that there was no way that my truck,a 98 Z71,could handle pulling a M Farmall,when it did the job three times better than my current truck,a 01 Ford 350.It stopped better,pulled better,and was,FOR ME, a good truck to pull with. I have no probelms with my current truck but the Chevy pulled my M better IMO.Also there are conditions where the poster(s) are clearly doing something dangerous and need to be told so,I just think the "Get a bigger truck" deal isnt needed in this post. Agauin thiss wasnt a personal atack on you or responce. John

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txgrn

07-30-2005 05:36:25




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
Texas has a love of their farmers and if used in agriculture most anything is permissible. Example: Chains on a trailer are now state law.....cept for farm trailers. Just an example.

Mark



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L.C.Grey

07-30-2005 17:15:04




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to txgrn, 07-30-2005 05:36:25  
Glad you brought that up.... I've been thinking I'd better get some chains on my gooseneck since their abscence is very visible when hooked to my flatbed. I'll have to check with my local license and weight man and see for sure. That would sure save me some time and trouble.

What about that goofy conspicuity making? Are farm trailers exempt from it too? I just don't want to put that silly reflective tape all over my trailer unless they just flat out force me to.

You're right though... in Texas as long as you're using your trailer for farm stuff you can pretty much do what you want. Heck theres even an oversize exemption for hay hauling, 144 inches is perfectly legal, rather than the usual 102.

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Matt_In

07-30-2005 05:36:13




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
I have a '04 z71. I pull an 18-foot car trailer rated for 7k with an unstyled B and two 110s. It pulls it just fine. Just have a good trailer brake controller and good brakes on the trailer. I have a dove tail. I like it when I have a hill I can back up to so I don't have to pull out my ramps.



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big jt

07-30-2005 00:50:12




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
Anyone who has seen me weigh in on this subject won't beleive what I am about to write.

Sounds like you are sizeing things about right. Just keep in mind that you don't want to go much more.

As I have said before remember getting the load stopped is way more of a concern than getting it going.

JM2CW

jt



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john in la

07-29-2005 22:17:10




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
If your #'s are correct you should be fine.

A 4000 lb tractor and a 2000 lb trailer will put you at 6000 lbs GVW.
With 2- 3500 lb axles you will be at 7000 GVWR so you have 1000 lbs to spare.

I will assume you have a extended cab truck. If so it will weigh in the neighborhood of 4800 lbs.
Add this to you 6000 lb trailer you are at 10800 GCVW; and you said your truck has a GCWR of 13000 lbs so you are 2200 under that.

Get a 16 ft trailer so you can move the load to adjust your tongue weight.
Get brakes on all wheels.

Dove tail and hyd lift are personal options and only you can justify the extra money if you want these items.

Can I open the BIG can of worms and say now that you are over 10,000 lbs gross weight you are commercial and are subject to the rules for such.

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old

07-29-2005 20:48:40




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
Yep its enough for that tractor. I use a 16ft trailor to haul all of what I play with. and at times probably are a little over loaded for what I use but have never had any problems



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Newman

07-29-2005 21:25:23




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to old, 07-29-2005 20:48:40  
DJL, you want have any problems. I haul a 50 with the simular setup. Just be careful loading and unloading, make sure it's secure and take your time while hauling. Don't rush and allow plenty of stoping time .



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Dell (WA)

07-29-2005 20:48:04




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 19:20:07  
DJL..... ....I'm glad you asked, dunno what the 1/2T Chevy pick'em-up is rated for, (check yer doorjamb plate or yer owners manual) but yer insurance agent would probably have connniptions. Airoverload springs won't make a 1/2T pickup legal but it will make the pickup ride level. 1/2T Chevys are build for soft smooth riding, NOT LOAD carrying. Yer talking about a 7000lb trailer being hauled by a 1/2T pickup. Trailer probably weighs 2000 lbs so you can "legally" haul 5000 of tare wt. Electric brakes are good on all 4-axles. 2" ball is illegal for 7000 lbs, go with 2-5/16" for 7000lb trailer. Gitta 16-footer so you have room to "ballance" yer tongue load by moving yer tractor back and forth. You NEED at least 500lbs of tongue load or yer trailer is gonnna wagg yer pickup down the freeway. You need at least 3-load chains/straps. 1-for the front axle. 1-for the rear axle that will stretch tight the front axle. 1-for over the tranny to keep the tractor on the top of the trailer. I've been stuck in too many traffic jambs where some backhoe tractor bounced off the guys trailer 'cuz it wasn't properly tied down..... ...Dell

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DJL

07-29-2005 21:35:04




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to Dell (WA), 07-29-2005 20:48:04  
Checking out the manuals: The B has a shipping weight of 3,140 lbs. In the pickup manual it lists the following: K1500 Extended Cab Short Box 4WD with 5.3 V8 and 3:73 rear end:
Max trailer wt 7,800 lbs
GCWR 13,000 lbs
Shouldn't I be about 1,500 lbs under the max weight with supplies, driver weight etc?



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paul

07-29-2005 23:13:05




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to DJL, 07-29-2005 21:35:04  
Any fluids in the tractor? Any weights? Are you going to haul an implement with it - blade, mower, plow?

Then you are getting past the load limit.

I got a 1/2 ton, a Dakota, & a heavy 6000# car trailer. Either pickup can pull it, I've had it well loaded & it works. But I only do so 2-4 times a year. If you are looking for a weekly haul or more, I'd look for a heavier truck. Any time you get over 6000#, a bumper hitch is not all that cool - gooseneck is nice.

--->Paul

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RustyFarmall

07-29-2005 21:13:06




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to Dell (WA), 07-29-2005 20:48:04  
I gotta agree with you Dell. The 1/2 ton truck might get the job done, but it won't do it well. Likewise the trailer, it will be nearly maxed out everytime it is loaded. 1/2 ton trucks just aren't what they were 30 years ago, if you are planning on hauling anything bigger than a lawnmower or a golf cart, you need a 3/4 ton.



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RickB

07-30-2005 15:29:04




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 Re: trailer purchase question in reply to RustyFarmall, 07-29-2005 21:13:06  
I totally disagree. A year ago, I spec'ed out a GMC 1500 4wd to pull a brand new 18' 7000# LoadTrail car hauler style trailer to carry my 4500lb Oliver 660 pulling tractor. The trailer is long enough to make the proper tongue weight. The combo is completely legal, and as safe as any other legal load on the road. I am not about to feed a 6 liter gasser, and a Diesel is a poor choice for the short run I have to work and back. The 1500 has 16" rubber and bigger brakes than any 10 year old half ton truck and the 5.3 engine has more than enough power to pull the load with a 3.73 rear. No reason it can't work for someone else. A 3/4 ton would have some advantages, it would be foolish not to agree. BUt the half ton should do well if it is spec'ed out right.

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