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Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal

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Paul Harris

11-09-2005 19:14:36

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I have a 1960 IH Farmall D-460 row crop tractor. The rear wheels are 15.5x38, and are held to the axle by 4 separate 1 5/16" bolts. These bolts are incredibly tight. I used a 12 foot cheater bar on my 3/4" ratchet with a 1 5/16" impact socket. On the third bolt I broke the ratchet.

There is very little room to get a socket in this area. Doesn't someone have a nice slick way of getting these bolts out so I can change the tires and fix the rear axle oil seals? The bolts will turn (eventually) but some of them wont' extract out of the hole due to rust/corrosion.

Anyone with a big Farmall have any ideas???

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Glenn FitzGerald

11-10-2005 12:41:32

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

This summer I removed the cast iron wheels on my SC and DC CASES to replace axel seals. The DC came apart with little difficulty. The SC, on the other hand, apparently had never been apart since the 1954 assembly line! I was able to remove all but two of them using a 3/4" socket wrench,(7/8" bolts) but the last two I broke by wrench on one of them. I had to cut the bolts off between the casting where is sandwiched around the axel. There was a space wide enough to get the torch flame in there. I had gotten the nuts off but the bolts themselves were locked in tight. No amount of penetrating oil was gonna work them loose. If you haven't already discovered it, hit the nut sharply with a heavy hammer and when wrenching move it ever so little right and left and they will usually eventually begin to loosen up. I removed all 8 nuts on mine without having to even hold the other end of the bolts. Then more penetrating oil, time...oil...time, etc. When I finally managed to get them to turn and pull out you would have been amazed how much dirt and rust had been holding them tight. One of those jobs that goes a little faster when planning than when actually doing the job! Between getting all 16 nuts off and bolts out(2 tractors), and getting the correct seals and new bolts, I think I had a week invested. It sure is nice now I don't have to set a level on the tractors in order to keep the axels from leaking. Glenn F.

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Galen

11-10-2005 10:49:24

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

I went to the hardware store and bought a 1 5/16" combo wrench. Worked great.

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Robhkent

11-10-2005 10:44:21

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

Paul:

Keep in mind you do not have to completely remove the bolts unless you want to. You can get the wheel off by merely getting them good and loose, and then walking the wheel off the axle, look out it is heavy!!

Rob

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Allan in NE

11-10-2005 05:07:40

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

Mornin' Paul,

Yes Sir, those things are tight; really tight.

You are going about it wrong in my humble opinion, you just about have to have the factory wrench to break those clamp bolts loose.

I've always used a 6' cheater both going on and coming off because a loose clamp will "walk" and wear on that axle, so they just have to be tight.

Hope ya get 'er,

Allan

third party image

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Keith-OR

11-10-2005 12:18:08

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Allan in NE, 11-10-2005 05:07:40

I can't believe it, I found two of those wrenches at local scrap yard couple monthes ago. I had no idea what they were for, I kept one and gave the other one to a close friend. So now I will put mine in with specialty tools....Thanks Allan for the headsup

Keith

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Allan in NE

11-10-2005 05:20:33

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Allan in NE, 11-10-2005 05:07:40

Should have mentioned,

A breaker bar will flex and "give".

The factory wrench is very "beefy" in the right places and it will give you a solid connect to that bolt so as to withstand the kinds of torque needed to break those things loose.

Allan

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Bill46

11-10-2005 04:51:08

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

Paul, if what the other guys gave you fails, I did as an old farmer told me. Turn a 200A welder on, place the ground on the wheel and put a layer of weld on the top of the bolt. Get it good and hot.
Let it cool and grind the weld off so it is the size it was when you started. Let the bolt totally cool for a day.
Then put your socket and breaker bar on it. You may have to use a 3/4" or 1" drive...I did. Seems the heat and voltage helped break up the rust.
I did this...and the bolts came right out.
My 2 cents...good luck.

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MN Scott

11-09-2005 20:25:00

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

Here's what you need. IH included these wrenches with the tractor when delivered new. You just put a 5 or 6 foot pipe on the handle and go to it. These things have very good steel in them as I have never broken one of mine but I have snapped bolts with them.

IH wrench

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colekicker

11-09-2005 19:19:53

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to Paul Harris, 11-09-2005 19:14:36

Soak it in diesel. Just pour diesel over it. It is the magic stuff. People will tell you every other brand of spray stuff, but I have used it on my H, M, and Super M. It works wonders.

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IaGary

11-09-2005 20:22:56

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Re: Farmall D-460 rear wheel removal in reply to colekicker, 11-09-2005 19:19:53

If the fuel don't work heat with torch and cool with water but don't turn when hot you will gauld the threads. Did this many times. The heating and cooling process brakes the rust free. P.S. Heat the u clamp not the bolt head.

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